Today's Articles

  • Compressor / Drain it or not?

    Question:

    Send it back.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

    Response:

    Thanks Steve….yes thank you!  I need someone who understands what I mean when I say "L O U D"! Damn…you do it better. Could you scream for me again…I think I hurt my throat….hehe. All kiddin aside…I’m thinking about trying to get my money back from Sams Club. This is the reason for my question….I hate to turn my compressor on and have it scream to build up internal pressure from 0 psi to 155 psi. Damn…that’s a long screaming wait. I literally have to walk out of the garage while it boots up (so to speak). Thanks Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art That is one of many problums with the Oil less  new designs.  They just SCREAM.  I won’t have one.  Bought one for a fiilm I was doing in the east YEARS ago .. it was from SEARS.  compressed just swell… sounded like  a missle shoot to MARS.  I just couldn’t take it. Junked that one and bought a " old ": pumper from a second hand store.  I lived with the " chunketa – pumputa " a lot better than the " WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME .. STOP .. ONCE MORE WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME and on and on." Steve E. I drain all my compressors once a week.  Lest I haven’t been running them.  I also change the Oil in them once a year .. The gas one’s I change oil in the motor every 6 months. the compressor once a  year. Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks Steve….yes thank you!  I need someone who understands what I mean when I say "L O U D"! Damn…you do it better. Could you scream for me again…I think I hurt my throat….hehe. All kiddin aside…I’m thinking about trying to get my money back from Sams Club. This is the reason for my question….I hate to turn my compressor on and have it scream to build up internal pressure from 0 psi to 155 psi. Damn…that’s a long screaming wait. I literally have to walk out of the garage while it boots up (so to speak). Thanks Vern Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art That is one of many problums with the Oil less  new designs.  They just SCREAM.  I won’t have one.  Bought one for a fiilm I was doing in the east YEARS ago .. it was from SEARS.  compressed just swell… sounded like  a missle shoot to MARS.  I just couldn’t take it. Junked that one and bought a " old ": pumper from a second hand store.  I lived with the " chunketa – pumputa " a lot better than the " WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME .. STOP .. ONCE MORE WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME and on and on." Steve E. I drain all my compressors once a week.  Lest I haven’t been running them.  I also change the Oil in them once a year .. The gas one’s I change oil in the motor every 6 months. the compressor once a  year. Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

    I don’t think anyone drains the air from the tank unless they plan to leave it unused for an extend period of time. That being months. Doug

    Response:

    Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

    Response:

    It’s a "coleman"…yes like lantern….hehe believe it or not. Damn thing’s loud! I mean I would have to yell over the sound of it to talk to you if you were standing next to me, and we both were standing next to it. Damn…. Hmmm…that room sounds great. …. Hehe…I wish I could just change some items on my old compressor… that was a real good one by Speedaire. But the damn….tank has rust holes in it…you know how dangerous that can be. Note: We need to see more airbrush posts on here…all I see lately is this spam porn crap. On a lighter note….. Aloha All….yes….from the islands. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Comcast Online Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art "Vern Enriques" wrote… Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I installed an automatic tank drain.  All of my piping branches also have manual drains that I drain daily or depending on how humid it is and how much use it gets I may drain them a couple times a day.  Keep in mind I’m using my compressor for air tools, sandblasting, paint guns and other assorted body work goodies. I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. Mine is loud  but I’ve gotten used to it and I built a small closet like room for it so that helped quite a bit. I’m thinking about returning it. What kind is it?  Mine has served me well over the years but in the past month I’ve had to replace almost everything except the tank and the motor. It’s paid for itself though, many times over. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com

    Response:

    155psi is probably the factory set point on the pressure switch for when the compressor motor turns off once the pressure in the tank reaches that point. Once you start removing air from the tank, the pressure in the tank will drop. When the tank pressure drops to 130psi (for example) then the motor will kick on and add air to the tank until it reaches 155 psi then it turns off again. These are factory settings on the pressure switch.  Some are adjustable and some aren’t. Adjusting it will not necessarily make it run more or less. If you only require 100 psi at your airbrush then put a regulator in the supply line (as close to the airbrush as possible).  This will decrease the amount of air volume being removed from the tank therefore increasing the time between on/off cycles of the compressor. If you could set the cut-in setting (the point when the motor turns on) lower and keep the cut-out setting (the point where the motor turns off) high then the compressor wouldn’t turn on as often but it would run longer when it does turn on and this would cause more heat creating more water in the tank. Setting both points lower won’t change anything because you’re still pulling the same amount of air from the tank regardless of what the cut-in/cut-out points are.  Unless those points were below what your demand is. Then the compressor would run continuously. The only real way to decrease how often the compressor cycles is to lower your air requirement (with regulator) and/or increase your air supply volume(bigger tank). The later not being very practical in most cases. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -"Vern Enriques" wrote… Hey Ken…..yeah I really don’t need 155 psi for sure…but there’s a sign on it saying not to touch the factory setting…am I misreading the thing? I would love to drop it down some….then it would shut down sooner… It’s SOOOO loud. Vern A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi?

    Response:

    A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi? Yes, you should drain it often…moisture trap every day and the compressor at least once a week…. I drain my moisture trap when I start the compressor up in the morning. I drain the tank at the end of the day, just kill the power, open the drain and leave. When you are ready to use it again, close the tap, fire it up, drain the moisture trap and you are ready to make magic. Ken

    Response:

    "Vern Enriques" wrote… Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that?

    I installed an automatic tank drain.  All of my piping branches also have manual drains that I drain daily or depending on how humid it is and how much use it gets I may drain them a couple times a day.  Keep in mind I’m using my compressor for air tools, sandblasting, paint guns and other assorted body work goodies. I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud.

    Mine is loud  but I’ve gotten used to it and I built a small closet like room for it so that helped quite a bit. I’m thinking about returning it.

    What kind is it?  Mine has served me well over the years but in the past month I’ve had to replace almost everything except the tank and the motor. It’s paid for itself though, many times over. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com

    Response:

    Hey Ken…..yeah I really don’t need 155 psi for sure…but there’s a sign on it saying not to touch the factory setting…am I misreading the thing? I would love to drop it down some….then it would shut down sooner… It’s SOOOO loud. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: http://groups.google.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi? Yes, you should drain it often…moisture trap every day and the compressor at least once a week…. I drain my moisture trap when I start the compressor up in the morning. I drain the tank at the end of the day, just kill the power, open the drain and leave. When you are ready to use it again, close the tap, fire it up, drain the moisture trap and you are ready to make magic. Ken

    Response:

    That is one of many problums with the Oil less  new designs.  They just SCREAM.  I won’t have one.  Bought one for a fiilm I was doing in the east YEARS ago .. it was from SEARS.  compressed just swell… sounded like  a missle shoot to MARS.  I just couldn’t take it. Junked that one and bought a " old ": pumper from a second hand store.  I lived with the " chunketa – pumputa " a lot better than the " WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME .. STOP .. ONCE MORE WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME and on and on." Steve E. I drain all my compressors once a week.  Lest I haven’t been running them.  I also change the Oil in them once a year .. The gas one’s I change oil in the motor every 6 months. the compressor once a  year. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

    Response:

    Hey Vern, I set them down all the time, but you need to be careful as the pressures are set at the factory…The more expensive units usually have a twin spring setup in the pressure box. If you are not sure, take it to a professional as it’s a 20 minute job. If it’s a direct drive, these units really do quite down by lowering the pressure and slowing down the motor…again a simple job for a pro. If you want to do it, MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF and UN PLUG IT!!! the switch boxes are usually HOT! Setting the pressure demands down, saves wear and tear on the electric motor as there is no need to drive the compressor pump so high. The higher the pressure, the harder the motor works. I’ve dropped down a lot of Jun Airs as many were designed for dental work and run up to 140 psi (TC 50 motors). I have one in my shop I just got yesterday, and I’ll drop down to 90 max and kick in at 70 as the guy does the odd shirt from time to time. Doing this can extend the life of the electric motor, but remember the manufacturer designed the unit to operate at 155psi so if you can live with the noise, you’ll still be fine. Ken

    Response:

    Thanks for the insight hawgeye……that makes a hell of a lot of sense. Actually this is how I have it set up. I wish I could add a larger tank….but probably not, as if I had the way to do that…I would have kept my old parts…because they are all good. That’s the reason I got a new compressor is because my old compressor tank rusted through. But now I can decrease my requirement using a regulator…I have one at the gun so that should do it. Thanks again. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Comcast Online Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art The only real way to decrease how often the compressor cycles is to lower your air requirement (with regulator) and/or increase your air supply volume(bigger tank). The later not being very practical in most cases. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com "Vern Enriques" wrote… Hey Ken…..yeah I really don’t need 155 psi for sure…but there’s a sign on it saying not to touch the factory setting…am I misreading the thing? I would love to drop it down some….then it would shut down sooner… It’s SOOOO loud. Vern A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi?

    Response:


  • Masking (Newbie)

    Question:

      Paul, <In the Charlie Brown voice  THAT’s IT!!!   Yeah … perfect. The stuff I have is the Badger stuff.  I’m not particularly fond of anything I’ve seen with their name on it (so far!).    Thanks Paul!      Scott B – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Scott, Welcome to the group even though you’ve been lurking for a while. With regards to masking the best film you can use it called Art Mask made by Artool. It’s quite a new film and is way better than the better known Frisk film. The frisk film is made by a new manufacturer now and it’s way to sticky. It lifts paint and tears the board. The Artool film is much better and I’ve not had any trouble with it since I switched to it last year. Find it at this link. Scroll down the page to Art Mask. http://www.arttalk.com/frisk/masking.htm Paul.

    Response:

    Good day Badger does have some good stuff, you said you were using createx paint (which is not badger) which we use on occasion at our shop. It seems to take 3 times as long to dry and often we have to use a heat gun to hurry it up. As far as a low tack masking we use a sign making premask… it comes in various sizes and leaves no residue. It is very similar to low tack masking tape or you can get it in clear, which is nice for doing complex layouts. It is reusable to a point and easy to cut, but mostly it is cheap in comparison to other films. If your going to stick with the createx, just try to give it more dry time. Cheers — Cory Kaminsky Custom Culture Airbrush Ltd. 17319- 107 Ave Edmonton, Alberta T5S-1E5 www.customculture.ca

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   Paul, <In the Charlie Brown voice  THAT’s IT!!!   Yeah … perfect. The stuff I have is the Badger stuff.  I’m not particularly fond of anything I’ve seen with their name on it (so far!).    Thanks Paul!      Scott B Hi Scott, Welcome to the group even though you’ve been lurking for a while. With regards to masking the best film you can use it called Art Mask made by Artool. It’s quite a new film and is way better than the better known Frisk film. The frisk film is made by a new manufacturer now and it’s way to sticky. It lifts paint and tears the board. The Artool film is much better and I’ve not had any trouble with it since I switched to it last year. Find it at this link. Scroll down the page to Art Mask. http://www.arttalk.com/frisk/masking.htm Paul.

    Response:

    I tend to use shields rather than masking film but in the past I did use a film that caused no damage. Can’t remember the name though. It might have been 3Ms. Here’s a Google search for the stuff: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22masking+film%22… oogle+Search You could also try going to a large graphics supplies store and asking there. One other thing: If you’ve not got an extractor, always wear a good facemask when spraying acrylics. They can cause terrible inflammation of the throat and I’m sorry to say, even cancer if inhaled. Hope this helps. Nemo

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve been lurking for a while (over a year perhaps) :-) I need some advise on masking material. he stuff I’m using now is from AC Moore (red letters on white (on the label)) I can’t find the label … so I can’t tell you what the brand name is. I do know, I don’t like it …. It pulls up paint and tears up paper on my foam board.  So what kind of low tack masking can I actually use?  I’ve been to the local 2 art stores, no has illustration board, so I’ve been usinf foam board to get started (learn on).   I’m using an Iwata HP-BC and a Paasche VL (using the fine needle). Primarily using Ceatex paint and I also have a few other choices to use (Reeves fine Gouache, and FW Acrylic Artists Ink).   I’ve appreciated Paul’s work and Hawgeye’s (as I know his nick name).   Having had a little time off for the holidays, I’ve been trying to get set up to actually do a few illustrations on 20" x 30" board.   I’m trying to, eventually, do a specific car model that will be illustrated to look like glass (with some red for the tail lights, and a few other ideas).      Scott B

    Response:

    Thanks Nemo, I did spray a little without the mask, … realized what I was doing and the smell … vented in a hurry :-)   It wasn’t the best.  I now have a bunch (a 20 pack) of the 3M (N95  8210-C) masks … for sanding painted surfaces. I also have a cartridge mask (if I can find it).    Thanks for the search info      Scott B – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I tend to use shields rather than masking film but in the past I did use a film that caused no damage. Can’t remember the name though. It might have been 3Ms. Here’s a Google search for the stuff: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22masking+film%22… oogle+Search You could also try going to a large graphics supplies store and asking there. One other thing: If you’ve not got an extractor, always wear a good facemask when spraying acrylics. They can cause terrible inflammation of the throat and I’m sorry to say, even cancer if inhaled. Hope this helps. Nemo Hi Folks, I’ve been lurking for a while (over a year perhaps) :-) I need some advise on masking material. he stuff I’m using now is from AC Moore (red letters on white (on the label)) I can’t find the label … so I can’t tell you what the brand name is. I do know, I don’t like it …. It pulls up paint and tears up paper on my foam board. So what kind of low tack masking can I actually use? I’ve been to the local 2 art stores, no has illustration board, so I’ve been usinf foam board to get started (learn on).  I’m using an Iwata HP-BC and a Paasche VL (using the fine needle). Primarily using Ceatex paint and I also have a few other choices to use (Reeves fine Gouache, and FW Acrylic Artists Ink).  I’ve appreciated Paul’s work and Hawgeye’s (as I know his nick name).  Having had a little time off for the holidays, I’ve been trying to get set up to actually do a few illustrations on 20" x 30" board.  I’m trying to, eventually, do a specific car model that will be illustrated to look like glass (with some red for the tail lights, and a few other ideas).     Scott B

    Response:

    Hi Folks, I’ve been lurking for a while (over a year perhaps) :-) I need some advise on masking material. he stuff I’m using now is from AC Moore (red letters on white (on the label)) I can’t find the label … so I can’t tell you what the brand name is. I do know, I don’t like it …. It pulls up paint and tears up paper on my foam board.  So what kind of low tack masking can I actually use?  I’ve been to the local 2 art stores, no has illustration board, so I’ve been usinf foam board to get started (learn on).   I’m using an Iwata HP-BC and a Paasche VL (using the fine needle). Primarily using Ceatex paint and I also have a few other choices to use (Reeves fine Gouache, and FW Acrylic Artists Ink).   I’ve appreciated Paul’s work and Hawgeye’s (as I know his nick name).   Having had a little time off for the holidays, I’ve been trying to get set up to actually do a few illustrations on 20" x 30" board.   I’m trying to, eventually, do a specific car model that will be illustrated to look like glass (with some red for the tail lights, and a few other ideas).      Scott B

    Response:

    A trick of OLD   spread some rubber cement on your work.  While it is still wet SQUEGGIE a sheet of tracing velem,  onion skin paper , down with a triangle 45 works the best.  Exacto out your area.  Lift out the paper then rub the cement that is left in the space out or use a pickup to get it.  Spray and move on.   Steve E.

    Response:

    Hi Scott, Welcome to the group even though you’ve been lurking for a while. With regards to masking the best film you can use it called Art Mask made by Artool. It’s quite a new film and is way better than the better known Frisk film. The frisk film is made by a new manufacturer now and it’s way to sticky. It lifts paint and tears the board. The Artool film is much better and I’ve not had any trouble with it since I switched to it last year. Find it at this link. Scroll down the page to Art Mask. http://www.arttalk.com/frisk/masking.htm Paul. — http://www.littlemisspinup.com http://www.paulcorfield.com

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I’ve been lurking for a while (over a year perhaps) :-) I need some advise on masking material. he stuff I’m using now is from AC Moore (red letters on white (on the label)) I can’t find the label … so I can’t tell you what the brand name is. I do know, I don’t like it …. It pulls up paint and tears up paper on my foam board.  So what kind of low tack masking can I actually use?  I’ve been to the local 2 art stores, no has illustration board, so I’ve been usinf foam board to get started (learn on).   I’m using an Iwata HP-BC and a Paasche VL (using the fine needle). Primarily using Ceatex paint and I also have a few other choices to use (Reeves fine Gouache, and FW Acrylic Artists Ink).   I’ve appreciated Paul’s work and Hawgeye’s (as I know his nick name).   Having had a little time off for the holidays, I’ve been trying to get set up to actually do a few illustrations on 20" x 30" board.   I’m trying to, eventually, do a specific car model that will be illustrated to look like glass (with some red for the tail lights, and a few other ideas).      Scott B

    Response:


  • Paint like Monet in 30 minutes !

    Question:

    I can do it in less time with some of my photoshop plugins…lol Come on Dow, you know this is an airbrush site, you’ve been here before.

     When I came up with this system, I used traditional paints. Watercolor and oils took too to long to dry. I set my studio up with airbrushes. Yeah! Photoshop has great plugins but I wanted more. I mixed computers and airbrushing together. 1001 different effects in photoshop didn’t satisfy me so I decided to become the plugin myself. Its more like ‘I become a human printer’. I project 10% cyan using a cell on a overhead projector. The trick is in the cells and how you make them. Then I spray 10% magenta using the magenta cell and then 10% yellow. I go back to cyan and use another cell to show me where the darker or next level of darkness and apply another 10% cyan. You keep going to build up. Or you can use solid colors and use cells from index colors. Premixing paints is timely. Airbrushing was my answer for now. I was hoping to make it look like paintings. Airbrushing is looking more look a print since you paint so well using this system. Most would just buy a print. I make have to move on to airbrushing on objects. Something a printer can’t do. For now I’m trying portraits on a mask to give a 3d look. Embossing on book covers makes people look at it twice.  Anyway, You can break all the rules of art and project computer effects on real canvases or cars. I hope to paint flames on cars and watch the firetrucks chance the flaming cars down the road. Don’t forget Stereovision can be applied. Some would see balls boncing in space and run them off the road.  Paint like Monet is a fun and superfast way to paint. Visit the site and start a topic Dow

    Response:

    I can do it in less time with some of my photoshop plugins…lol Come on Dow, you know this is an airbrush site, you’ve been here before. Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paint like Monet in 30 minutes !  You bet! its easy! its fun! and it looks great!  You can paint like I did using my new techniques. I will show you. Come vist: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/givecolor/  And post questions and view other messages. there, You will learn how I did it. See my art at: http://home.earthlink.net/~thompsonstudios  All my art at this site was done using my new technique. You won’t believe it and should want to know how I did it. I will share with you at the givecolor group. See you there! Dow

    Response:

    Paint like Monet in 30 minutes !  You bet! its easy! its fun! and it looks great!  You can paint like I did using my new techniques. I will show you. Come vist: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/givecolor/  And post questions and view other messages. there, You will learn how I did it. See my art at: http://home.earthlink.net/~thompsonstudios  All my art at this site was done using my new technique. You won’t believe it and should want to know how I did it. I will share with you at the givecolor group. See you there! Dow

    Response:


  • Anyone use a Aztek Airbrush? HI have a pow do you like them? are they a good brand? Comments Plaese TIA

    Question:

    Hi I have been using an Aztek for about 7 months and haven’t had any of the problems that Paul has mentioned. I did have a problem with the tips not being cleaned right because Aztek said not to take the tips apart, I decided to take the tips apart which just pull apart pretty easily and then I just soak them in airbrush cleaner. I haven’t had any problems with it at all since I started doing that. I hope this helps you out. Good luck. Kevin

    Response:

    Hey Paul, it sounds like you might not have the washer on your nozzle you sometimes get them with the kits other times you don’t. I ordered some new nozzles and that particular batch came with the washers. They slip over the threads of the nozzle and seal the area between the brushes metal and seals quite well. You may be able to get hold of testors and get some.Write to there customer service. Also make sure that your pressure isnt above 35PSI since inks have a low viscosity they tend flow easier and could find a crack to flow through also too high a pressure can damage the brush but hey its got a lifetime warranty. StevenP/PEN Productions

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I strip down the needles too. Sometimes I’ll even take the ultra fine needle and put it in the black tip etc to get a better spray. The black tip lets you get very close to the work. The leak problem may just be down to the paint I use. Who knows. I use very diluted FW acrylic inks. When you pull the trigger back there is a linkage attached to a small metal pin which in turn moves the needle in the nozzle. This metal pin travels through from the body into the section where you screw on the nozzle and it’s where paint gets through into the body, eventually leaking out onto my hands or dripping onto my work. I’ve stripped mine down many times and on all my models this metal pin is quite a loose fit in the hole that it sits in. I’d prefer tighter tolerances but that’s probably down to their moulds etc. I’ve injected part of the body on mine with silicone sealer which has cured all my problems. Paul. — The Pinup Art of Paul Corfield      www.paulcorfield.com Hi I have been using an Aztek for about 7 months and haven’t had any of the problems that Paul has mentioned. I did have a problem with the tips not being cleaned right because Aztek said not to take the tips apart, I decided to take the tips apart which just pull apart pretty easily and then I just soak them in airbrush cleaner. I haven’t had any problems with it at all since I started doing that. I hope this helps you out. Good luck. Kevin — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

    Response:

    sorry don’t know wft happend there

    Response:

    I have a Paasche airbrush but am thinking about getting something a little newer.

    Response:

    I would leave the Aztek well alone. The age of your Paasche is not important as long as it is in good working order. I’ve had 3 Aztek’s and they have all leaked out paint from the main body. They have a lifetime guarantee so I kept sending them back and they would send me a new one which would have the same problem. I have modified mine now to stop the leaks but then you forfeit your guarantee. As a beginner you may think you aren’t getting the results you want from your Paasche and that a new airbrush is the answer to your problems. In reality I think the only solution is plenty of practice to learn how to control your airbrush. Would you agree? What is the exact model of your Paasche? Best regards, Paul. — The Pinup Art of Paul Corfield      www.paulcorfield.com

    sorry don’t know wft happend there

    — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

    Response:

    Hey Kevin,  I totally agree Ive been using they Aztek for two years andthe only problem was keeping nozzles clean so I pulled them apart and it seemed to do the trick. Although I would be careful with being overly forceful with the spring that surrounds the tip. Thats where I find most of the problem and it can stretch. I run acetate through the nozzle then dissasmble. Make sure you use a professional filter mask though since its toxic. Steven Pendleton/PEN productions

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi I have been using an Aztek for about 7 months and haven’t had any of the problems that Paul has mentioned. I did have a problem with the tips not being cleaned right because Aztek said not to take the tips apart, I decided to take the tips apart which just pull apart pretty easily and then I just soak them in airbrush cleaner. I haven’t had any problems with it at all since I started doing that. I hope this helps you out. Good luck. Kevin

    Response:

    Hi Steven, The problem I’ve been getting is paint flowing back into the main body and leaking out of that. I don’t get any paint coming from around the nozzle at all. If you take the nozzle off and look into the hole where it goes you will see a small metal pin that moves back and forth when the trigger is pulled back and forth. When I took all my Azteks apart this pin was quite a loose fit and that’s why the paint gets past it and into the body. The chart that came with my airbrush list all the pressures for each nozzle and 40psi is the max and I normally spray quite low, about 20psi as I use thin acrylic inks. I just don’t think they are that well made. They are ok for the hobbyist but not for all day, every day like I do. I wouldn’t recommend them to someone when there are airbrushes that are so much better on the market. Do you use Aztek exclusively or do you use other brands also? Best regards, Paul. — The Pinup Art of Paul Corfield      www.paulcorfield.com

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey Paul, it sounds like you might not have the washer on your nozzle you sometimes get them with the kits other times you don’t. I ordered some new nozzles and that particular batch came with the washers. They slip over the threads of the nozzle and seal the area between the brushes metal and seals quite well. You may be able to get hold of testors and get some.Write to there customer service. Also make sure that your pressure isnt above 35PSI since inks have a low viscosity they tend flow easier and could find a crack to flow through also too high a pressure can damage the brush but hey its got a lifetime warranty. StevenP/PEN Productions I strip down the needles too. Sometimes I’ll even take the ultra fine needle and put it in the black tip etc to get a better spray. The black tip lets you get very close to the work. The leak problem may just be down to the paint I use. Who knows. I use very diluted FW acrylic inks. When you pull the trigger back there is a linkage attached to a small metal pin which in turn moves the needle in the nozzle. This metal pin travels through from the body into the section where you screw on the nozzle and it’s where paint gets through into the body, eventually leaking out onto my hands or dripping onto my work. I’ve stripped mine down many times and on all my models this metal pin is quite a loose fit in the hole that it sits in. I’d prefer tighter tolerances but that’s probably down to their moulds etc. I’ve injected part of the body on mine with silicone sealer which has cured all my problems. Paul. — The Pinup Art of Paul Corfield      www.paulcorfield.com Hi I have been using an Aztek for about 7 months and haven’t had any of the problems that Paul has mentioned. I did have a problem with the tips not being cleaned right because Aztek said not to take the tips apart, I decided to take the tips apart which just pull apart pretty easily and then I just soak them in airbrush cleaner. I haven’t had any problems with it at all since I started doing that. I hope this helps you out. Good luck. Kevin — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

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    Response:

    I strip down the needles too. Sometimes I’ll even take the ultra fine needle and put it in the black tip etc to get a better spray. The black tip lets you get very close to the work. The leak problem may just be down to the paint I use. Who knows. I use very diluted FW acrylic inks. When you pull the trigger back there is a linkage attached to a small metal pin which in turn moves the needle in the nozzle. This metal pin travels through from the body into the section where you screw on the nozzle and it’s where paint gets through into the body, eventually leaking out onto my hands or dripping onto my work. I’ve stripped mine down many times and on all my models this metal pin is quite a loose fit in the hole that it sits in. I’d prefer tighter tolerances but that’s probably down to their moulds etc. I’ve injected part of the body on mine with silicone sealer which has cured all my problems. Paul. — The Pinup Art of Paul Corfield      www.paulcorfield.com

    Hi I have been using an Aztek for about 7 months and haven’t had any of the problems that Paul has mentioned. I did have a problem with the tips not being cleaned right because Aztek said not to take the tips apart, I decided to take the tips apart which just pull apart pretty easily and then I just soak them in airbrush cleaner. I haven’t had any problems with it at all since I started doing that. I hope this helps you out. Good luck. Kevin

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    Response:

    It’s called a type H? Here is a link to a pic on my webpage. http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sonicmonkey2002/vwp?.dir=/art+Work&.src=ph…  The only thing I would like to is have the air control be like the newer brushes where the trigger moves back and forth also to let more or less air though. But I got it for free so no complaints: P And yes I agree 100% practice will help a lot. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would leave the Aztek well alone. The age of your Paasche is not important as long as it is in good working order. I’ve had 3 Aztek’s and they have all leaked out paint from the main body. They have a lifetime guarantee so I kept sending them back and they would send me a new one which would have the same problem. I have modified mine now to stop the leaks but then you forfeit your guarantee. As a beginner you may think you aren’t getting the results you want from your Paasche and that a new airbrush is the answer to your problems. In reality I think the only solution is plenty of practice to learn how to control your airbrush. Would you agree? What is the exact model of your Paasche? Best regards, Paul.

    Response:

    Hey Sonic, If I were you, I would spend my money on a decent double action airbrush. I got an Aztek as a hand me down once but I wouldn’t want to do that to anyone else myself. It had the same problems Paul described and I don’t like the way the tips are designed. I have Paasche airbrushes (VSR-90 and VLS) and I’m very happy with them. I also have an Evolution (gravity feed) which I like very much too but that one is hard to get in the US. I think you should check what brand is easily available in your neck of the woods and if you can, try to get a feel for them before you buy. I know of several stores that will let you try one or at least hold it to feel the trigger action. Just my humble opinion, Ed (a.k.a. Platypus) http://members.cox.net/platypus/

    It’s called a type H? Here is a link to a pic on my webpage.

    http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sonicmonkey2002/vwp?.dir=/art+Work&.src=ph… irBrush.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/sonicmonkey2002/lst% 3 f%26.dir=/art%2bWork%26.src=ph%26.view=t – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  The only thing I would like to is have the air control be like the newer brushes where the trigger moves back and forth also to let more or less air though. But I got it for free so no complaints: P And yes I agree 100% practice will help a lot. I would leave the Aztek well alone. The age of your Paasche is not important as long as it is in good working order. I’ve had 3 Aztek’s and they have all leaked out paint from the main body. They have a lifetime guarantee so I kept sending them back and they would send me a new one which would have the same problem. I have modified mine now to stop the leaks but then you forfeit your guarantee. As a beginner you may think you aren’t getting the results you want from your Paasche and that a new airbrush is the answer to your problems. In reality I think the only solution is plenty of practice to learn how to control your airbrush. Would you agree? What is the exact model of your Paasche? Best regards, Paul.

    Response:


  • Another …2 Tigers …go ahead beat me up!

    Question:

    Wanted to try something a little more difficult. On a gray sweatshirt 2 tigers..Just about finished. It has been a pain in the ass cause the heads are only about the size of baseballs…Can’t learn doin easy stuff..    Plus I wanted to see if I could do 2 pictures in 2 days…Guy who I may go to work with says I’m too slow… http://photos.yahoo.com/saze2003 Thanks all John.

    Response:

    Hi John, The Tigers were a big improvement. My only criticism is that the backgrounds need as much thought as the main focus of the painting. It looks like you spent a lot of time on the tigers and put the background in as an afterthought. Colors on the grass look a little too green or the sky is too blue etc. For an example of time, I would do a fully rendered photo real tiger in about 8 hours on a 20" x 30" board. It’s right that you shouldn’t do the easy stuff. When I first started out I would paint the hardest subjects I could find. As for never being happy with what you paint, that’s right too. As long as you are never happy with it then I will never be happy also. I think whether I like a painting or not is irrelevant. Were all here to learn and pick fault. Even though you are a beginner you’ve been painting long enough to be good, which you can see in your best work so if you post something not as good as your other stuff and say you are happy with it then that would wind me up but I don’t think I have been harsh. If I had posted that Lion and someone said they liked it I would have thought they were blind. When I paint a pinup my wife will say "Oh that’s amazing" but if there is even the tiniest mistake then I look at her and say " you what, can’t you see it". I am my worst critic and that’s the best way to be. Take everything else with a pinch of salt. Best regards, Paul. — The Pinup Art of Paul Corfield      www.paulcorfield.com Wanted to try something a little more difficult. On a gray sweatshirt 2 tigers..Just about finished. It has been a pain in the ass cause the heads are only about the size of baseballs…Can’t learn doin easy stuff..    Plus I wanted to see if I could do 2 pictures in 2 days…Guy who I may go to work with says I’m too slow… http://photos.yahoo.com/saze2003 Thanks all John.

    — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

    Response:

    don’t quit your day job and try to sell signed and numbered prints to members of your family

    Shouldn’t you be cleaning windows?

    Response:

    Hey John….getting better…getting better. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: RAEX Corporation – North Canton, OH Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Wanted to try something a little more difficult. On a gray sweatshirt 2 tigers..Just about finished. It has been a pain in the ass cause the heads are only about the size of baseballs…Can’t learn doin easy stuff..    Plus I wanted to see if I could do 2 pictures in 2 days…Guy who I may go to work with says I’m too slow… http://photos.yahoo.com/saze2003 Thanks all John.

    Response:

    Hey John, No beating up needed on this one. I like the painting a lot. As Paul points out, the background could use some more attention and I know that’s sometimes hard. I always struggle with the background for some reason. Keep up that good work, Ed (a.k.a. Platypus) http://members.cox.net/platypus/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wanted to try something a little more difficult. On a gray sweatshirt 2 tigers..Just about finished. It has been a pain in the ass cause the heads are only about the size of baseballs…Can’t learn doin easy stuff..    Plus I wanted to see if I could do 2 pictures in 2 days…Guy who I may go to work with says I’m too slow… http://photos.yahoo.com/saze2003 Thanks all John.

    Response:

    don’t quit your day job and try to sell signed and numbered prints to members of your family – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wanted to try something a little more difficult. On a gray sweatshirt 2 tigers..Just about finished. It has been a pain in the ass cause the heads are only about the size of baseballs…Can’t learn doin easy stuff..    Plus I wanted to see if I could do 2 pictures in 2 days…Guy who I may go to work with says I’m too slow… http://photos.yahoo.com/saze2003 Thanks all John.

    Response:


  • Hockey mask

    Question:

    Chris…. Maybe if masking is a problem….try some ‘liquid mask’.. Aloha Vern Organization: Newsfeeds.com http://www.newsfeeds.com 80,000+ UNCENSORED Newsgroups. Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art I’ve tried to mask on those masks before and never had too much luck. Believe me I’d like to cause I’m a stencil freak, but sometimes it’s not worth all the effort. Maybe some freehand stencils would work.

    awesome for free hand,Try another one but mask it this time :) once again great mask :) — Cory Sarafinchan Splat Graphics Splat Graphic Designs 2002 SGD Racing http://members.tripod.ca/splatgraphics/ :) doing the blue out line and black drop shadow today.please look for it on my site soon :)  

    son’s team.

    Response:

    awesome for free hand, Try another one but mask it this time :)   once again great mask :) — Cory Sarafinchan Splat Graphics Splat Graphic Designs 2002 SGD Racing http://members.tripod.ca/splatgraphics/ PS: I’m working on a tool box that has flames on it :) doing the blue out line and black drop shadow today. please look for it on my site soon :)   Hockey mask I did awhile ago for my son’s team.

    Response:


  • Help! I need a new compressor

    Question:

    Does the compressor allow the paint to pulsate, i had heard this might be a problem with non airbrush specific compressors but i do not know. thanks steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <Steve,I have a Sears1.5 hp,12gallon costs about $200.00.That’s what I use and from what I’ve seen on some other previous posts a couple others use the same.It’s a little noisy,but I like it,it weighs about 70-75lbs. Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:

    <Steve,I have a Sears1.5 hp,12gallon costs about $200.00.That’s what I use and from what I’ve seen on some other previous posts a couple others use the same.It’s a little noisy,but I like it,it weighs about 70-75lbs.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:

    Steve, no pulsating at all. It runs up to 120psi then shuts off, I think it kicks back on around 90psi. I’m not sure never really watched. Allways steady pressure even sprayin T-shirts at higher pressures.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does the compressor allow the paint to pulsate, i had heard this might be a problem with non airbrush specific compressors but i do not know. thanks steve <Steve,I have a Sears1.5 hp,12gallon costs about $200.00.That’s what I use and from what I’ve seen on some other previous posts a couple others use the same.It’s a little noisy,but I like it,it weighs about 70-75lbs. Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:

    Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:


  • Looking for the name of an artist

    Question:

    Soroyama (forgot his first name).  Check airbrush.com; there may be a link to a site or two with his work up… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, a few years ago I remember seeing some artwork by an airbrush artist and I can’t remember his name. He did a lot of chrome female figures. Does this ring any bells with anyone? Thanks for any help.

    Response:

    There are a lot of imitators, but among the best was Hajime’ Sorayama and his Sexy Robots or Gynoids series. There are many sites displaying his work. This is a small display of chrome pinups I saw recently: http://www.imagenetion.com/sora17.htm Your search engine will find much more. Be good to yourself

    Response:

    Hi, a few years ago I remember seeing some artwork by an airbrush artist and I can’t remember his name. He did a lot of chrome female figures. Does this ring any bells with anyone? Thanks for any help.

    Response:

    Hi, a few years ago I remember seeing some artwork by an airbrush artist and I can’t remember his name. He did a lot of chrome female figures. Does this ring any bells with anyone? Thanks for any help.

    Yeah I know who you are talking about.  His last name is Soriyama (not sure if thats spelled correctly).  He is amazing!  There are lots of web sites dedicated to his art but I dont have any of them availible right now. Chris

    Response:

    Hajime Sorayama ! He’s a Japanese artist, and has many widely available books covering this stuff.  See http://www.imagingoz.com/sorak.html Hi, a few years ago I remember seeing some artwork by an airbrush artist and I can’t remember his name. He did a lot of chrome female figures. Does this ring any bells with anyone? Thanks for any help.

    Ade Butterfield Airbrush and oil paintings at http://www.bayview.freeserve.co.uk

    Response:


  • Hi

    Question:

    I have just subscribed to this news group. I am a scale model builder and I use an air brush ( aztek 470) I am interested in what else can be achieved using air brushes ,Tshirt painting and the other types of art that I have seen around ( motor cycle tanks and paintings done on board). Are there any publications that would help me to read about some of the techniques used to produce some of the results that I have seen( stencils masking etc) Thanks in advance   — UIN 2820369 Pager:wwp.mirabilis.com/2820369

    Response:

    I have just subscribed to this news group. I am a scale model builder and I use an air brush ( aztek 470) I am interested in what else can be achieved using air brushes ,Tshirt painting and the other types of art that I have seen around ( motor cycle tanks and paintings done on board). Are there any publications that would help me to read about some of the techniques used to produce some of the results that I have seen( stencils masking etc) Thanks in advance  

    Airbrush Action Magazine – subscribe:  800/232-8998 Airbrush Magazine – subscribe: 800/910-4891

    Response:


  • naturally thin? – celebs

    Question:

    <<  Maybe no one was meant to be 15-20 lbs underweight, according to the Maker, or else we would have been made with less of a need for food, and less of a need to punish ourselves because we do eat. now if we all can just convince our hearts and souls of that ~ eh?!? great thinking, pondering post! thanks, karla kdeer ~ wandering through the forest of recovery experiencing many glorious moments of peace and joy these days =)

    Response:

    So many of the celebrities…are so thin.  But my question is, how do they get that way?  Working out constantly?  When they have auditions, gigs, rehersals, pr, and so many other things, let alone their parties, friends, and families?   Kate Moss, waif model, brags about how she is going out to eat a baked potato, "dripping with butter."  Brad Pitt(though I am a huge fan) and Gwyneth Paltrow are skeleton thin in those internet naked pictures, yet he talks about how she often comes to the set of the movie he’s working on with "truckloads of food."  In alt.showbiz.gossip, they are talking about the blind item, where someone is said to be spending so much time in the dentist’s chair because they are suffering from bulimia and it is ruining their teeth.  They say that it refers to Courney Cox.  There is a special on E! about Margoux Hemmingway, the beautiful model, and her tragic life, including belimia.  Karen Carpenter and Tracey Gold suffered from anerexia. So my next question is, is the thinness that many strive for even natural? Are the stars even killing themselves to look like themselves?  Maybe no one was meant to be 15-20 lbs underweight, according to the Maker, or else we would have been made with less of a need for food, and less of a need to punish ourselves because we do eat.

    Response:

    Also, know that print models do to necessarily look the way they do when you see them.  There is a lot of airbrushing oing on.  I see what they do in re art for music albums.  Poeple have hipos shaved and stomachs shaved, etc.  It’s amazing.

    Seconded. Any ad you see in print can easily have been modified by computer or airbrush.  I work in the graphics software industry, believe me. I recall seeing on The Learning Channel a show called The Human Animal.   One ep was on "beauty" – made a strong case that a lot of what we call beauty is defined by our culture and not innate.  Also showed a person manipulating an image for a magazine, taking the model’s legs and lengthening them by 20% so that she looks more sexy (something to do with childbearing) and, not coincidentally, more thin. /Steve

    Response:

    many are naturally thin.  i knwo that many also suffer fomr e.d.s but from what I understand, those intreatment are nto vrey high profile. I know that the ones I knwo are simply helathy and they work out wihtout being obsessive, etc.   Also, know that print models do to necessarily look the way they do when you see them.  There is a lot of airbrushing oing on.  I see what they do in re art for music albums.  Poeple have hipos shaved and stomachs shaved, etc.  It’s amazing. regardless, we shoudl enver use a celeb  as a yardstick for ourrsleves becasue we dontl knw one way or the other.

    Response:

    So many of the celebrities…are so thin.  But my question is, how do they get that way?  Working out constantly?  When they have auditions, gigs, rehersals, pr, and so many other things, let alone their parties, friends, and families?  

         About 3 to 5 percent of the general population has an inefficient metabolism, and does not gain weight easily.  Many of the people in these professions fall into that group because of the current cultural standard that looks at thinness as desirable.  There are way more people in those professions who don’t meet that criteria, but are not as high profile.   There are also many who have EDs and hide it.  You mentioned a few, but the known list is much longer.        About the same percentage of the population has a high IQ score. They also often end up as high profile people – perhaps everyone should strive to be more like that group.   Think of the problems:  compulsive learning,  over-educated, too well read, too artistic and creative, overproductive,  solves too many problems,  but is ultimately still not happy.   Humans, being what we are, can turn anything into a problem. Thank goodness I went into psychology, I’ll never be out of work!   :-)      Take care,           Bryan. —   No one can make a redwood tree out of a magnolia. The best we can do is eliminate the aphids in the magnolia. We don’t have to change, we just have to do the best we can at being ourselves. No one should expect more than that of others, or of themselves.

    Response: