Today's Articles

  • Opinions needed

    Question:

    Hi all! I am a hobbies and not an artist.  I am looking to purchase an airbrush for multiple uses and need advice from those who know.  I do a big Halloween thing every year, and work on several new props each year.  I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail.  Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item.  I have been surfing around and am thinking either the Badger Anthem or Universal. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs.  Price is not a problem, and I think I have the air source covered. Currently I have a full size compressor with 26 gal tank and a little diaphragm job I can add a reservoir to for portability. Thanks in Advance, Doug

    Response:

    I know the H is capable of everything you’re talking about.  Things are just substantially more of a hassle to do with a single action, external mix airbrush.  It’s just an all-around nicer experience with internal mix. On a positive note regarding the H: if anyone wants to say that the H is the best external mix, single action airbrush in the world, I’d be agreeing with that.  If they’re gonna build a single action / external mix, that’s the way to do it. David Kennesaw, GA

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That would be because he isn’t using Paasche or Iwata… by choice. Douglas was originally asking about a Badger Anthem.  Jay’s site is an ideal demonstration of what he asked about. Sorry mate…I guess I misjudged you I want to yell at ya for recommending an H, but I won’t.  I have one of those.  He bought a VL, so he got internal mix already. Hey David you went to far there, from your response you know little about airbrushing props…I do… An H is what the masters of movie, theater and even Sydney Opera Company prop departments use by choice. By the way…We also supply the TAFE colleges here in the Sydney metro area(That’s the four year college programs for tradesmen)…Two of the Automotive course TAFEs offered, use Paasche VL kits for the students. One other college uses Sparmax SP-35 for their courses. The TAFE colleges’ signwriters courses use Hansa Aeropro’s, Sparmax DH-125 (with 0.5mm fluid nozzles to handle waterborne urethanes)…. The make-up uses sparmax DH 101 with 0.35 fluid nozzles (I change them for nails) and Iwata HPC… My point? All those courses have "H"s in the classrooms for the students to use and try out, as there are many times that old H is great. Want to see an H in action…try Ivan’s site www.ivanbenic.com It’s the only brush he uses…:-) Ken

    Response:

    Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem.  This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/  Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find.

    Mate I went to jay’s site and he’s sponsored by Badger! I used to demonstrate for that company and service there equipment…if you have an hour I can lay out the limits of a badger for you…lol.. I’m always amazed how people seem to believe the magic is in the brush.. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other

    items with much greater detail.  Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. Mate, you have just discribed a Paasche Mdl H….. We sell tons of airbrush equipment to the movie industry, Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Matrix, Fox, etc and most the prop work and makeup is done with the mdl H. It does all the things you asked about and a 3 tip kit from Paasche in the US is next to nothing in price. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs.  

    Doug, you hit the nail on the head, and since price isn’t a problem…I’d make a choice a little later on. First kind of get the feel of the Paasche and your needs for detail. You’ll have a better understanding of what the brushes can do. Then when you are ready, get yourself a dual action. by the way …"Price is not a problem" (Do you know any of my ex-wives!!!LOL…) and You’re covered in the compressor department mate…for sure. Later, Ken

    Response:

    I think the diaphragm compressor won’t be able to push pressure into a tank. The big one with the 26 gallon tank will do great.  You’d just have to add a regulator/gauge/moisture trap.  They’re about $30.  You can put a quick disconnect male (with 1/4" threads on the other side) in the regulator’s in side and it will be able to plug into the compressor air hose or right into the hose disconnect. Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem.  This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/  Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find. David Kennesaw, GA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all! I am a hobbies and not an artist.  I am looking to purchase an airbrush for multiple uses and need advice from those who know.  I do a big Halloween thing every year, and work on several new props each year.  I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail.  Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item.  I have been surfing around and am thinking either the Badger Anthem or Universal. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs.  Price is not a problem, and I think I have the air source covered. Currently I have a full size compressor with 26 gal tank and a little diaphragm job I can add a reservoir to for portability. Thanks in Advance, Doug

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem.  This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/  Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find. Mate I went to jay’s site and he’s sponsored by Badger! I used to demonstrate for that company and service there equipment…if you have an hour I can lay out the limits of a badger for you…lol.. I’m always amazed how people seem to believe the magic is in the brush.. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail.  Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. Mate, you have just discribed a Paasche Mdl H….. We sell tons of airbrush equipment to the movie industry, Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Matrix, Fox, etc and most the prop work and makeup is done with the mdl H. It does all the things you asked about and a 3 tip kit from Paasche in the US is next to nothing in price. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs. Doug, you hit the nail on the head, and since price isn’t a problem…I’d make a choice a little later on. First kind of get the feel of the Paasche and your needs for detail. You’ll have a better understanding of what the brushes can do. Then when you are ready, get yourself a dual action. by the way …"Price is not a problem" (Do you know any of my ex-wives!!!LOL…) and You’re covered in the compressor department mate…for sure. Later, Ken

    Ken, thanks for the response! I just spent 1.5 hours at Perl Art supply and let the guy talk me into Paasche VL. I paid about $30 +tax  more than I needed to but got to play with both prior to buying. I still like the Anthem better then the VL but I guess I should play with it for a while before I make up my mind.  The demo VL had a #5 needle in it so it didn’t do thin lines to well, but the thing I disliked the most was the thickness of the body and the roughness of the trigger. I will get the adapter for the compress tomorrow and give it a run for fun!  Time will tell, and I have a birthday coming up and a sister-in-law that loves to order stuff off the internet.  Maybe I can have both and figure it out for myself! Thanks Doug

    Response:

    Hey Doug, The VL is a good workhorse of an airbrush…I don’t know of any ol’ timers who don’t have one. The #5 tip/needle is 1.0mm, the same as a touch-up gun…I would guess miles too big for your needs. Install the #3 assembly, from the set and lube the trigger assembly with some type of needle lube…(badger calls theirs needle juice) to help you break it in. Believe me, the trigger will smooth out after a little use. I would later swap the aircap for a Paasche #PP "Picker Cap" It will allow you to paint lines as it allows the needle to protrude past the air cap. Just be sure you take care to protect the needle. It’s a good all around airbrush and as you said, later you can pick up a smaller detail airbrush. By the way,I know a guy who makes up glow in the dark pigments/paints in the USA, as we also sell the stuff here. PM me at my address above if you’re interested and I’ll put you in contact with him….great for halloween.. Still on R&R Ken

    Response:

    That would be because he isn’t using Paasche or Iwata… by choice.  Douglas was originally asking about a Badger Anthem.  Jay’s site is an ideal demonstration of what he asked about.

    Sorry mate…I guess I misjudged you I want to yell at ya for recommending an H, but I won’t.  I have one of those.  He bought a VL, so he got internal mix already.

    Hey David you went to far there, from your response you know little about airbrushing props…I do… An H is what the masters of movie, theater and even Sydney Opera Company prop departments use by choice. By the way…We also supply the TAFE colleges here in the Sydney metro area(That’s the four year college programs for tradesmen)…Two of the Automotive course TAFEs offered, use Paasche VL kits for the students. One other college uses Sparmax SP-35 for their courses. The TAFE colleges’ signwriters courses use Hansa Aeropro’s, Sparmax DH-125 (with 0.5mm fluid nozzles to handle waterborne urethanes)…. The make-up uses sparmax DH 101 with 0.35 fluid nozzles (I change them for nails) and Iwata HPC… My point? All those courses have "H"s in the classrooms for the students to use and try out, as there are many times that old H is great. Want to see an H in action…try Ivan’s site www.ivanbenic.com It’s the only brush he uses…:-) Ken

    Response:

    Mate I went to jay’s site and he’s sponsored by Badger!

    That would be because he isn’t using Paasche or Iwata… by choice.  Douglas was originally asking about a Badger Anthem.  Jay’s site is an ideal demonstration of what he asked about. I used to demonstrate for that company and service there equipment…if you have an hour I can lay out the limits of a badger for you…lol.. I’m always amazed how people seem to believe the magic is in the brush..

    As though the very same limits would not apply to the Millenium or the Revolution BCR? I said "that’s mostly a demonstration of skill".  Skill doesn’t come from the airbrush. I want to yell at ya for recommending an H, but I won’t.  I have one of those.  He bought a VL, so he got internal mix already. David Kennesaw, GA

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem.  This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/  Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail.  Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. Mate, you have just discribed a Paasche Mdl H….. We sell tons of airbrush equipment to the movie industry, Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Matrix, Fox, etc and most the prop work and makeup is done with the mdl H. It does all the things you asked about and a 3 tip kit from Paasche in the US is next to nothing in price. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs. Doug, you hit the nail on the head, and since price isn’t a problem…I’d make a choice a little later on. First kind of get the feel of the Paasche and your needs for detail. You’ll have a better understanding of what the brushes can do. Then when you are ready, get yourself a dual action. by the way …"Price is not a problem" (Do you know any of my ex-wives!!!LOL…) and You’re covered in the compressor department mate…for sure. Later, Ken

    Response:


  • Your most useable and versatile SHIELD?

    Question:

    Thanks Paul…you are always giving such great tips…and you are always in the know! Good one! Aloha Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: ntlworld News Service Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hi Vern, I make all my own mostly, I use regular tracing paper to trace out the design I want. Then I cover all the pencil lines with regular sticky tape and cut out the shield with my scalpel. The sticky tape insures that the tracing paper doesn’t curl up and buckle if it gets wet. It’s quick and simple and you get the shape you want. If you keep both parts ie – the shape you cut out and the piece that you cut it from then you have two shields straight away. Paul. http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc? Vern

    Response:

    What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc? Vern

    Response:

    Vern spoke thusly: What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc? Vern

    I have a couple of the "Freehand" templates from Artool.  Pretty handy for a quick edge.  Especially if I’m doing the shadow of a "fold". Check out Dixie Art Supply. — -||- Diode -|<|-

    Response:

    Another good idea…thank you Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc? I have a bendable curve, it’s a foot and half long, flat, and it stays in whatever shape I bend it into. I’ve found that it’s pretty useless for anything small, but it’s great for long gentle curves. Very fast. It’s meant to be used with a pen.

    Response:

    I make my own.. Rado Vera’s (not sure of the spelling) book, "complete studio handbook" first came out in 83′ I think, has a great sheild design. Ken

    Response:

    Thank you Diode… Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Planet Express Inc. Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Vern spoke thusly: What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc? Vern I have a couple of the "Freehand" templates from Artool.  Pretty handy for a quick edge.  Especially if I’m doing the shadow of a "fold". Check out Dixie Art Supply. — -||- Diode -|<|-

    Response:

    "Vern" wrote… What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone?

    A condom? :-) I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc?

    I assume you are referring to template/masking devices. They’re not as bendable as I need them to be but I have a set of French curves from days of hand drafting.  I really don’t use shields in the work that I do since most of my work requires masking tape or frisket but when I do need a shield I use the French curves more than other devices. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

    Response:

    What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc?

    I have a bendable curve, it’s a foot and half long, flat, and it stays in whatever shape I bend it into. I’ve found that it’s pretty useless for anything small, but it’s great for long gentle curves. Very fast. It’s meant to be used with a pen.

    Response:

    Hi Vern, I make all my own mostly, I use regular tracing paper to trace out the design I want. Then I cover all the pencil lines with regular sticky tape and cut out the shield with my scalpel. The sticky tape insures that the tracing paper doesn’t curl up and buckle if it gets wet. It’s quick and simple and you get the shape you want. If you keep both parts ie – the shape you cut out and the piece that you cut it from then you have two shields straight away. Paul. http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD? Anyone? I can never really find one shield that can be used in most situations…I end up making my own shields singally….you know as needed. Is there something that would most closely do the majority of curves, etc? Vern

    Response:

      Thanks Paul. That’s a good idea. All of us Newbies really appreciate your’s , Ken’s, Diode’s and the rest of you in here’s advice. It really helps. I check this group every day for new postings and idea’s to forward my airbrushing. Thanks again.   Hi Vern,   I make all my own mostly,   I use regular tracing paper to trace out the design I want. Then I cover all   the pencil lines with regular sticky tape and cut out the shield with my   scalpel. The sticky tape insures that the tracing paper doesn’t curl up and   buckle if it gets wet. It’s quick and simple and you get the shape you want.   If you keep both parts ie – the shape you cut out and the piece that you cut   it from then you have two shields straight away.     Paul.     http://www.paulcorfield.com   http://www.littlemisspinup.com         What is your most useable and Versatile SHIELD?     Anyone?     I can never really find one shield that can be   used in most situations…I end up making my   own shields singally….you know as needed.     Is there something that would most closely do   the majority of curves, etc?     Vern    

    Response:

    I saw that Ken….I agree with your input…but there has to be someone else who came out with a useful sheild since 1983? no? Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: http://groups.google.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art I make my own.. Rado Vera’s (not sure of the spelling) book, "complete studio handbook" first came out in 83′ I think, has a great sheild design. Ken

    Response:


  • ? Do you think pressure affects ability to paint?

    Question:

    Vern Enriques spoke thusly: Another thing….I realize that most compressors come with regulators (the bigger good ones) with a gauge…but what I really want was a pressure gauge / regulator that is as close to my airbrush as possible / because of what they call Friction Loss in the hose. Vern

    Vern: If this is your correct email address I can send you some pictures of a "rig" I made.  I had taken them for "Zukzilla".  It has a regulator, gauge, 2 separators and a manifold.  The whole thing is built on a toolbox.  Pretty handy and portable.  When I’m in the basement airbrushing I plug it into the air line down there.  When I’m in the garage with a big sprayer or air tools, I plug it into the compressor directly. — -||- Diode -|<|-

    Response:

    I use a standard ‘diaphragm’ type pump. Actually it’s an old Badger pump (works like an aquarium pump) type. I have no clue as to what pressure I’ve been spraying at. I feel at times that it may be a little too high. Question: Do you think that if the pressure at the gun is too high, that you won’t be able to control over-spray, or to be able to spray very fine lines, etc.? or do you think this affects the ability at all? Or is it that you should be spraying at a constant…say 15 psi i.e. just to atomize the paint right? I would like to hear your thoughts. I just bought an ‘inline regulator’, but have no gauge (wish it did) though. Any comments appreciated. Aloha vern

    Response:

    "Vern" wrote… Question: Do you think that if the pressure at the gun is too high, that you won’t be able to control over-spray, or to be able to spray very fine lines, etc.? or do you think this affects the ability at all?

    If you are using a dual-action airbrush you have more control than if you were using a single-action. Or is it that you should be spraying at a constant…say 15 psi i.e. just to atomize the paint right?

    Depends on what you’re painting on to and the paint viscosity. I would like to hear your thoughts.

    I have a paasche diaphragm compressor that I use as a back-up it has a way to adjust the pressure but I have no idea what I’m spraying at.  That’s probably why it stays in the box.  And although I basically use dual-action guns, spray automotive paints on to automotive type surfaces I still like/need the ability to control my air pressure.  Being able to see what pressure you’re painting at under certain circumstances helps. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

    Response:

    Yes Diode…this is my real email address…Would like to see your set up. Thanks Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Vern Enriques spoke thusly: Another thing….I realize that most compressors come with regulators (the bigger good ones) with a gauge…but what I really want was a pressure gauge / regulator that is as close to my airbrush as possible / because of what they call Friction Loss in the hose. Vern Vern: If this is your correct email address I can send you some pictures of a "rig" I made.  I had taken them for "Zukzilla".  It has a regulator, gauge, 2 separators and a manifold.  The whole thing is built on a toolbox.  Pretty handy and portable.  When I’m in the basement airbrushing I plug it into the air line down there.  When I’m in the garage with a big sprayer or air tools, I plug it into the compressor directly.

    Response:

    Thanks for all the replies….Hawgeye and Airbrush Ken… Well I’m thinking ureethanes…HOK paints….onto hard surfaces… I wanted more control of my paint with less overspray…and sometimes when I need really fine lines on a smaller scale I feel as if the pressure was less…I could control the overspray a lot more. I find it easier to paint ‘large’…but when it’s time for the little things….it’s harder to control. I realize that there is a point where the paint and pressure..will begine to ’stipple’….but I would like to realize the lowest pressure that one can spray for a particular paint, that gives as good an atomization as at the higher pressures. But…overall it’s hard when I’m guessing what pressure I’m spraying at…and besides if one knows what pressure he is working at….wouldn’t it be easier to duplicate the job you just did? OF cours…aside from thinning or reducing the paint. ??? Thanks again for all the help. Aloha all Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: http://groups.google.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hey Vern, First off a quick thought on using the pump. Most come with a bleeder valve on the hose connector to adjust pressure…Badger, Paasche all sell them for a few dollars…as for a gauge…just buy a pressure gauge ($5.00) and a "T" fitting from any plumbing supply..you’ll need to match your fittings (I’m guessing 1/4" pipe thread)to your compressor and airline. Question: Do you think that if the pressure at the gun is too high, that you won’t be able to control over-spray, or to be able to spray very fine lines, etc.? Pressure will make all the difference. As does the type of paint and the type of feed (gravity, side fill, etc.)the airbrush has. Also the surface can dictate what pressure you need to use. Come back with some more info Vern…paint, brush, surface… Ken "Aim towards the enemy." – Instruction printed on Army rocket launcher!

    Response:

    "Vern Enriques" wrote… Another thing….I realize that most compressors come with regulators (the bigger good ones) with a gauge…but what I really want was a pressure gauge / regulator that is as close to my airbrush as possible / because of what they call Friction Loss in the hose.

    How far away do you keep the compressor? If it’s the length of say a 10′ air hose I wouldn’t be concerned about friction loss. Unless you keep your hose in a knot or kinked, the loss is going to be negligible. However if you like to keep your compressor far away then you can run a line close to you. Attach it to a regulator/guage that is within reach and then tap off of it with your airbrush hose. The ultimate setup would be to have the regulator/guage at the airbrush but that’s going add weight and could make things awkward. Now if they came out with a built in regulator/LCD digital guage built in to the brush, like they have on the top of the line Sata spray guns, that would be the cat’s ass. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

    Response:

    Yeah Hawgeye….know what you mean about the reg/gauge at the gun. I used to run my old pre-hvlp guns that way. I know what you’re saying about the Friction loss….I’m not trying to be technical, I just want to have some idea of what my ‘reference’ pressure is like. At least I can gauge it a little better. Right now I have no ‘clue’ as to what I’m spraying at. hehe. Thanks for info Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Comcast Online Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art "Vern Enriques" wrote… Another thing….I realize that most compressors come with regulators (the bigger good ones) with a gauge…but what I really want was a pressure gauge / regulator that is as close to my airbrush as possible / because of what they call Friction Loss in the hose. How far away do you keep the compressor? If it’s the length of say a 10′ air hose I wouldn’t be concerned about friction loss. Unless you keep your hose in a knot or kinked, the loss is going to be negligible. However if you like to keep your compressor far away then you can run a line close to you. Attach it to a regulator/guage that is within reach and then tap off of it with your airbrush hose. The ultimate setup would be to have the regulator/guage at the airbrush but that’s going add weight and could make things awkward. Now if they came out with a built in regulator/LCD digital guage built in to the brush, like they have on the top of the line Sata spray guns, that would be the cat’s ass. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

    Response:

    Another thing….I realize that most compressors come with regulators (the bigger good ones) with a gauge…but what I really want was a pressure gauge / regulator that is as close to my airbrush as possible / because of what they call Friction Loss in the hose. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: http://groups.google.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hey Vern, First off a quick thought on using the pump. Most come with a bleeder valve on the hose connector to adjust pressure…Badger, Paasche all sell them for a few dollars…as for a gauge…just buy a pressure gauge ($5.00) and a "T" fitting from any plumbing supply..you’ll need to match your fittings (I’m guessing 1/4" pipe thread)to your compressor and airline. Question: Do you think that if the pressure at the gun is too high, that you won’t be able to control over-spray, or to be able to spray very fine lines, etc.? Pressure will make all the difference. As does the type of paint and the type of feed (gravity, side fill, etc.)the airbrush has. Also the surface can dictate what pressure you need to use. Come back with some more info Vern…paint, brush, surface… Ken "Aim towards the enemy." – Instruction printed on Army rocket launcher!

    Response:

    Hey Vern, First off a quick thought on using the pump. Most come with a bleeder valve on the hose connector to adjust pressure…Badger, Paasche all sell them for a few dollars…as for a gauge…just buy a pressure gauge ($5.00) and a "T" fitting from any plumbing supply..you’ll need to match your fittings (I’m guessing 1/4" pipe thread)to your compressor and airline. Question: Do you think that if the pressure at the gun is too high, that you won’t be able to control over-spray, or to be able to spray very fine lines, etc.?

    Pressure will make all the difference. As does the type of paint and the type of feed (gravity, side fill, etc.)the airbrush has. Also the surface can dictate what pressure you need to use. Come back with some more info Vern…paint, brush, surface… Ken "Aim towards the enemy." – Instruction printed on Army rocket launcher!

    Response:


  • question on painting mural…

    Question:

    Top drawer stuff that. I find it really hard to think any bigger than 20×30" he must have to go and stand well back from the mural a million times to get things right as a ‘whole’ painting.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Here is web site on his work. http://www.medea-artool.com/artool/archives/2000APR-AIRMAG/thinkbig/ Also, you may want to join this Yahoo! group and search their archives. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/muralart/ Regards, Jerry

    Response:

    Airbrushing season started here in Poland for good. In my preparations fro painting an exterior wall of a cafe (approx 60 square meters) came upon a few questions which I hope one of you, dear airbrushers will be able to help me deal with. 1. What is the best kind of paint to use as a base coat, weather conditions here change from snowy in the winter to extremely hot in the summer, the surface is a regular concrete. 2 Is it wise to use transparent paints or should rather  opaque, as the more lasting ones, be used. 3 Are there any procedures to preserve the mural from bleaching or cracking. Best regards, Lukasz HotAIRbrush Poland www.airbrush.k7.pl

    Response:

    This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you Wenz and thank you Jerry! Best regards, Lukasz www.airbrush.k7.pl

    Response:

    use sign paints, oil base is always the best – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Airbrushing season started here in Poland for good. In my preparations fro painting an exterior wall of a cafe (approx 60 square meters) came upon a few questions which I hope one of you, dear airbrushers will be able to help me deal with. 1. What is the best kind of paint to use as a base coat, weather conditions here change from snowy in the winter to extremely hot in the summer, the surface is a regular concrete. 2 Is it wise to use transparent paints or should rather  opaque, as the more lasting ones, be used. 3 Are there any procedures to preserve the mural from bleaching or cracking. Best regards, Lukasz HotAIRbrush Poland www.airbrush.k7.pl

    Response:

    Hi Lukasz, That’s a pretty big area to paint, In June’s 2003 Airbrush Art+Action magazineWilliam Lazos did a tutorial on ‘big area outdoor painting’ and it was in Canada where it too gets very hot-then-cold apparently…In the tutorial he says he uses special ‘outdoor latex paints’ which he describes as being rather viscous….         He seems to paint on billboard space which are covered over each time a company buys the space.. so longetivity of the artwork is not really an issue for him like it would be for u…. I guess a good white masonary primer paint and a good masonary clear sealant would be your best bet ….but I don’t kow for sure.  Good luck with it anyway. Wenz the ‘vague’ one.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Airbrushing season started here in Poland for good. In my preparations fro painting an exterior wall of a cafe (approx 60 square meters) came upon a few questions which I hope one of you, dear airbrushers will be able to help me deal with. 1. What is the best kind of paint to use as a base coat, weather conditions here change from snowy in the winter to extremely hot in the summer, the surface is a regular concrete. 2 Is it wise to use transparent paints or should rather  opaque, as the more lasting ones, be used. 3 Are there any procedures to preserve the mural from bleaching or cracking. Best regards, Lukasz HotAIRbrush Poland www.airbrush.k7.pl

    Response:

    Here is web site on his work. http://www.medea-artool.com/artool/archives/2000APR-AIRMAG/thinkbig/ Also, you may want to join this Yahoo! group and search their archives. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/muralart/ Regards, Jerry

    Response:


  • Water problem

    Question:

    I have a water problem….my airbrush spatters water… I am using a diaghragm type compressor by Badger… and use a thayer/chandler vega 2000 airbrush. I have a 10′ hose line between the compressor and my one and only inline water filter..then to a 6 feet hose line to my airbrush. I find quite a bit of water trapped inside the filter, but still doesn’t stop all of the water.. Any suggestions from out there in airbrush land. Aloha Vern

    Response:

    Dear Vern, Are you running a standard moisture or one of those small Paasche in line filters? If it is, they are not design used as a "stand alone" moisture trap. Diaphragm compressors run very hot, plus working in a humid climate can cause real problems. If the compressor doesn’t have an auto shut-off switch, you’ll need to turn it off about every twenty minutes just to let it cool down. You also could add a second moisture trap at the compressor to help out. I would also hang the hose from the it’s end for a couple of days to dry out. Hope that helps. Still on R&R Ken www.ausairbrush.com

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -"–Shiva–" wrote… I have a water problem….my airbrush spatters water… I am using a diaghragm type compressor by Badger… and use a thayer/chandler vega 2000 airbrush. I have a 10′ hose line between the compressor and my one and only inline water filter..then to a 6 feet hose line to my airbrush. I find quite a bit of water trapped inside the filter, but still doesn’t stop all of the water.. Any suggestions from out there in airbrush land. Aloha Vern  go to a tool supply place- Harbor freight maybe… look at the inline water trap,  ther IS a mini trap…and see if you cant adapt it to your compressor hoses… mount it SOLID, and with the bowl down as per instructions…this might help….  the humidity in some places is through the roof, and in others, they want water…

    The problem with diaphragm type compressors is that most do not have a separate air tank therefore the compressor runs constantly.  The more it runs the more heat is generated, heating the air and condensing it. Humidity doesn’t help much either. An inline moisture trap is a good start if it’s positioned properly. Mounting the moisture trap directly to or close to the compressor will defeat the purpose.  The trap needs to be (depending on the size of the air line) a distance away from the compressor so that the air has time to cool. There is no set rule or formula for that distance because the conditions are too varied, but a min. of 10′ between the compressor and the trap should work for a 1/4" air line.  I’d suggest using a desiccant type moisture trap if you can afford it. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

    Response:

    Aloha Ken and the alt. airbrush. art newsgroup … Yes living in Hawaii creates a big problem with humidity. Yes..I am running an inline filter…but is not sufficient. I am going to try one of those more heavy duty filters not specifically designed for airbrush only. Thanks for your reply Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: http://groups.google.com/ Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Dear Vern, Are you running a standard moisture or one of those small Paasche in line filters? If it is, they are not design used as a "stand alone" moisture trap. Diaphragm compressors run very hot, plus working in a humid climate can cause real problems. If the compressor doesn’t have an auto shut-off switch, you’ll need to turn it off about every twenty minutes just to let it cool down. You also could add a second moisture trap at the compressor to help out. I would also hang the hose from the it’s end for a couple of days to dry out. Hope that helps. Still on R&R Ken www.ausairbrush.com

    Response:

    As the other people have staighted you might try a second inline filter so as to trap more water that the first one does not get. All compressors will make water wether it be a diapham or piston type. I’ve used a second one on my hose’s about 3′ from brush and the first at the compressor (keep the first filter clean change or clean it often). The tank compressors are best for you can drain off the excess water once or twice a day..

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a water problem….my airbrush spatters water… I am using a diaghragm type compressor by Badger… and use a thayer/chandler vega 2000 airbrush. I have a 10′ hose line between the compressor and my one and only inline water filter..then to a 6 feet hose line to my airbrush. I find quite a bit of water trapped inside the filter, but still doesn’t stop all of the water.. Any suggestions from out there in airbrush land. Aloha Vern

    Response:


  • WTB or Cheap Source for 3HP Single Phase 115VAC Motor?

    Question:

    What they should have told you is the recommended rpm of the pump. Too manufacturer’s provide a minimum rpm for the specific purpose of providing splash oiling. These two specs tyically run in the neighborhood of 800-1200 rpm and half that respectively. Of course this depends on the size and type of the pump.  Sounds to me like you might have a mid-size (as far as home compressors go) single stage pump. Speedaire uses lower HP motors on their setups and provide higher cfm ratings (as a comparision).  I always wondered about this as well as the advertised HP ratings of some of these compressors.  (How can a 6 HP motor only draw 22 amps??? – the math just ain’t right!) Anywho…motors are easy to come by. Someone suggested Northern – which has several good choices. I don’t know first hand about Harbor Freight’s motors, but they too have several economical options. Mark from Pasadena, MD – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I know now that I cannot currently run my 240VAC compressor on 120VAC current (until both phases of 120VAC in the building are connected). Until that time comes (maybe weeks, months, years, decades?)…I can not run the compressor. So either I get another compressor, get a different motor to use in the interim, or move to another location. I spoke with Ingersoll-Rand and they suggested using nothing smaller than a 3HP 115VAC motor. They said 3HP is the smallest they would safely recommend because the compressor pump has splash lubrication and a smaller HP motor might not turn the pump sufficiently fast to provide adequate lubrication. Now, I’m not that hip to motor specs and sources (talk of the devil, I did purchase a book a week ago dealing with electric motors/power transmission) so I’m curious if anyone knows of a source of cheap used, surplus,or rebuilt/rewound motors? Also, another newsgroup that deals specifically with electric motors? Specs: Usage: Air Compressor -1 phase -115VAC -3HP -Hz 60 -3450 RPM (or within 5%) -continuous duty -SF: 1.15 -Ball Bearing -thermal protection: manual reset -size/frame: XR56Y  (or close match) I’ll need a 7/8" keyed shaft for the pulley I anyone has one to sell or knows of a good, inexpensive source, lay ‘er on me. Thanks. Cheers, -Neal

    Response:

    It uses 26 amps. Thats 3.5 more than the stock motor. A #10 guage wire (possibly #8) should handle it, no? Would a 3HP motor be able to talk to the pump?

    Good luck at getting 26A out of a standard 15A apartment wall plug. Fitch

    Response:

    bin there done that Hi Neal I had a similar problem in that I need to convert my portable scuba compressor to electric but make it plug compatible with marine power. I found a 3hp 115v motor for $150 from a compressor company (air power 800-334-4509). 3hp is the limit on 115volt. some thing s you need to know is that some 115v motor are not reversible so you may need to now the direction of rotation before you order.   I installed this on a 20 amp breaker with 10 gauge wire all by itself. in theory it calls for a 30 amp at startup but runs around  15amps. So far it has not tripped or blown the breaker. I even think it might be able to run on a 15 amp circuit as long as I start the compressor with the valves in the open position so there is no additional load placed on the startup phase (yet to try it). hope this helps AndyM

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I know now that I cannot currently run my 240VAC compressor on 120VAC current (until both phases of 120VAC in the building are connected). Until that time comes (maybe weeks, months, years, decades?)…I can not run the compressor. So either I get another compressor, get a different motor to use in the interim, or move to another location. I spoke with Ingersoll-Rand and they suggested using nothing smaller than a 3HP 115VAC motor. They said 3HP is the smallest they would safely recommend because the compressor pump has splash lubrication and a smaller HP motor might not turn the pump sufficiently fast to provide adequate lubrication. Now, I’m not that hip to motor specs and sources (talk of the devil, I did purchase a book a week ago dealing with electric motors/power transmission) so I’m curious if anyone knows of a source of cheap used, surplus,or rebuilt/rewound motors? Also, another newsgroup that deals specifically with electric motors? Specs: Usage: Air Compressor -1 phase -115VAC -3HP -Hz 60 -3450 RPM (or within 5%) -continuous duty -SF: 1.15 -Ball Bearing -thermal protection: manual reset -size/frame: XR56Y  (or close match) I’ll need a 7/8" keyed shaft for the pulley I anyone has one to sell or knows of a good, inexpensive source, lay ‘er on me. Thanks. Cheers, -Neal

    Response:

    There are lots of guys on these NG’s that can tell you anything about electric motors.

    Don’t doubt it. Waiting for them to put in their appearance. Btw, got a recommendation on fertile motor newsgroup? If you need to replace an existing 220V motor with one that will run on 110V, then try to get one with the same frame. Read the nameplate on the motor carefully. You will likely find a frame number like 56C or something. Those frame numbers are not specific to motor manufacturers, they comply with NEMA spec.

    Yes. It’s a "XR56Y". From what I can gather, the suffix "Y" designates non-standard mounting. I’m still a baby when it comes to motors. Waiting for that used text book to arrive. My memory’s just been jogged!!!! An electronics/electrical internet mentor in Canada who had been helping me design a microprocessor circuit once mentioned an esoteric classic benchmark book on motor winding/rewinding. Advised me to read the book and to seek some work rewinding motors to learn more about them (time wasn’t right, I was more DC now I’m moving into AC). Before I hooked up with him, I was cluelessly considering making my own solenoids (big beefy muthas)…I was just learning about them and couldn’t find massive ones like I wanted…called a motor rewind shop in NJ and talked windings and solenoids. The guy invited me to come on over and use as much copper as I needed to make some solenoids. Never took him up on it (used OTS stuff)…but…might be a great resource for a used or custom wound motor. Hey, maybe I can burn another week month?)of my life…winding motors! Yippeee! God good, it does kill the cat. Are you absolutely positively certain that your motor cannot be rewired to run at 115V?

    No. I know there are 220V-only motors, but in my whole life I’ve never seen one. Usually you can take off the cover to the motor’s connection box, and there is a printed diagram glued to the inside which will show how to reconnect for different voltage. The nameplate will give a clue as well.

    The nameplate only lists 230V. I’ll maybe poke inside tomorrow. Curious what it looks like in there anyway ;-) Be aware that your new motor will draw twice the current that your old one did (power = volts * amps, and you cut the volts by 2 and keep the power output the same only by doubling the amps).

    I was considering a 3HP for the new 115VAC motor. Mine is 5HP, 230VAC. You will need a special circuit wired for this motor. NO WAY it will run on a normal household 15A or 20A circuit. A good rule of thumb is that the largest 115V motor you can run on a 15A circuit is 1.5hp which means you will need a 30A circuit.

    My service has #8 wire feeds to the apartment breaker panel. I could run a #8 wire circuit for the motor alone, with a big breaker. Your current compressor may have a magnetic switch on it. If so, it will also need to be upgraded, and this will cost almost as much as the motor, sadly.

    No magnetic switch. If it doesn’t have a mag switch then it is depending directly on the pressure switch (that’s the little box on the pipe coming right off the main air tank, with wires going towards the electric motor) to switch the motor current, and you will then have to look at the pressure switch to make sure it is rated to switch 30 amps.

    Yes, that’s the setup. Correct, inside the switch enclosure it has a label: 1 Phase Ratings: Volts   FLA   LRA 120     34    144 240     26    130 On 145 PSI Off 175 PSI (what does LRA refer to?) Usually, they aren’t, which is why they use mag switches. Fortunately, those pressure switches are cheap (they sell them at Home Depot) and you may be able to buy one rated to switch 30A. When it comes time to buy a motor, the very best way is to buy used.

    I was thinking the same thing. Been scouring ebay. Failing that, you can go cheap (buy a Marathon power tool motor from Harbor Freight) or you can go quality (call your local Leeson distributor and whine until they give you 55% discount off of list, but Leeson are top quality US motors.)

    Can you give me some examples of your whining technique? I’m willing and eager to learn if it can effectively lower motor prices. What a great skill! All this is a little like closing the barn door after the horse has left – the time to figure all these costs was when you were contemplating installing this air compressor in the first place.

    Well, I was informed by the contractor that I had 240VAC service…the asbestos (if you’ve followed the entire sordid and probably boring saga) is a hush-hush type thing that threw a wrenchin the works. Shit happens. Still, sometimes you get a compressor when you get it. It can cost an awful lot of money to rework the electrics on a machine, though.

    Don’t worry: this compressor will have it’s day of glory. Thanks a bunch Grant. Cheers, Neal

    Response:

    I can comiserate, I have the same compressor.

    How do you like it? I listened to it when I picked it up and it didn’t sound nearly as loud as I was expecting it to be. I use a 2P-40 and #8AWG wire to service it.

    What’s the 2P refer to? That’s the problem, you will probably pop the breakers before the motor ever gets started. An inrush current of 10-12 times the FLA shown on the namplate are not uncommom. IOW, an inrush of 300 Amps is not out of the question. It might only last for 0.10 seconds, but that probably will exceed the magnetic capacity of a typical residential thermal-magnetic bkr found in your panel.

    Lew, this is still something I’ve yet to understand. 300 amps is alot: wouldn’t that overpower most modest shops’ service, let alone residential? Spare me the aggrivation. Spend the $400-$500 and get the JGA with a 2 qt pressure pot and do it right the first time.

    It’s a small $400 touch up gun: gravity fed and rotatable side mounted cup. Iwata’s newest incarnation of the 100 series, LHP-100-LVG Fine art painting mostly w/thinner mediums are what I’ll be using it for. I’ll be indulging in Iwata’s airbrushes as well. There is another way. Go get one of these little tank mounted units on wheels powered by a 1 HP electric motor. Pipe it so the 80 gal tank is basically a receiver.

    What additional modifications does this entail for the pumping compessor and for the receiving compressor? Hardware? It will take a long time to pump up the system, but it will also last a long time before the motor comes back on. When you move to the new loft, sell the little unit.

    I’ve considered this as well, but the noise factor is an issue…this is an apartment building and the lil’ cheap one’s are generally prohibitively loud. Tommorow, a friend (and perhaps me if I have the time) will visit an elderly retired machinist. He mentioned he has a 60 gallon compressor or some such thing that runs on 115VAC. Maybe he’ll let me borrow the motor (or have another laying around), the entire pump/motor system, or the whole damn thing. His entire friggin’ basement is a mausoleum of tools covering every conceivable surface, labyrinthian passages, mazes, cubby holes, floor to ceiling and back….all chock full of machinist tools. He spends his days stripping copper wire with his teeth (well…OK, not his teeth), sometimes with cubscouts, which he then recycles. Built some bad as machinery in his day. Slowly the ends will come together… Life is short, build machinery. Thanks a bunch. Cheers, -Neal

    Response:

    "N." writes: Hi ya Lew, Is your admonition directed against my generic interest in a 115VAC compressor replacement motor as a solution, or directed SPECIFICALLY against the motor sold by  Nothern Tools that Jerry referenced?

    The motor itself. The design basically sucks. It’s at the outer limits of single phase design. Weight is not an issue: I have a tank (literally) of a compressor with an 80 gallon verticle tank. If only you could have seen us transport and move the thing. Pure folly.

    I can comiserate, I have the same compressor. I use a 2P-40 and #8AWG wire to service it. The motor by comparison is like an ant crawling over a sycamore tree.

    Or a mosquito trying to rape an elephant, AKA: The height of conceit. Inefficiency also isn’t an issue monetarily (unless it causes functional problems in the electric service itself).

    That’s the problem, you will probably pop the breakers before the motor ever gets started. (the latter from ebay or surplus).

    A real one is dirt cheap. Trust me. Futhermore, my future plans involve moving my work (tools an’ all) into an art studio proper & preferably with attendant 3 Phase service (I’ve suffered from bogus electricity for the past 16 years and enough is enough)

    Best idea you’ve had yet. Expense? It’s dirt cheap: only $90.  Harbor Frieght looks to have the same motor for the same price, with free shipping to boot.

    Maybe. It uses 26 amps. Thats 3.5 more than the stock motor. A #10 guage wire (possibly #8) should handle it, no? Would a 3HP motor be able to talk to the pump?

    An inrush current of 10-12 times the FLA shown on the namplate are not uncommom. IOW, an inrush of 300 Amps is not out of the question. It might only last for 0.10 seconds, but that probably will exceed the magnetic capacity of a typical residential thermal-magnetic bkr found in your panel. LVLP (low volume,low pressure) spraygun

    Spare me the aggrivation. Spend the $400-$500 and get the JGA with a 2 qt pressure pot and do it right the first time. Do you think it could work??

    As I’ve tried to say earlier, Very Iffy. There is another way. Go get one of these little tank mounted units on wheels powered by a 1 HP electric motor. Pipe it so the 80 gal tank is basically a receiver. It will take a long time to pump up the system, but it will also last a long time before the motor comes back on. When you move to the new loft, sell the little unit. HTH — Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures Btw, here’s the pesky compressor:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600… r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1011815124&indexURL=0&rd=1 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks. Cheers, Neal

    Response:

    There are lots of guys on these NG’s that can tell you anything about electric motors. If you need to replace an existing 220V motor with one that will run on 110V, then try to get one with the same frame. Read the nameplate on the motor carefully. You will likely find a frame number like 56C or something. Those frame numbers are not specific to motor manufacturers, they comply with NEMA spec. Then you will know what you need – a 3hp 115VAC motor with the same frame number. Are you absolutely positively certain that your motor cannot be rewired to run at 115V? I know there are 220V-only motors, but in my whole life I’ve never seen one. Usually you can take off the cover to the motor’s connection box, and there is a printed diagram glued to the inside which will show how to reconnect for different voltage. The nameplate will give a clue as well. Be aware that your new motor will draw twice the current that your old one did (power = volts * amps, and you cut the volts by 2 and keep the power output the same only by doubling the amps). You will need a special circuit wired for this motor. NO WAY it will run on a normal household 15A or 20A circuit. A good rule of thumb is that the largest 115V motor you can run on a 15A circuit is 1.5hp which means you will need a 30A circuit. Your current compressor may have a magnetic switch on it. If so, it will also need to be upgraded, and this will cost almost as much as the motor, sadly. If it doesn’t have a mag switch then it is depending directly on the pressure switch (that’s the little box on the pipe coming right off the main air tank, with wires going towards the electric motor) to switch the motor current, and you will then have to look at the pressure switch to make sure it is rated to switch 30 amps. Usually, they aren’t, which is why they use mag switches. Fortunately, those pressure switches are cheap (they sell them at Home Depot) and you may be able to buy one rated to switch 30A. When it comes time to buy a motor, the very best way is to buy used. Failing that, you can go cheap (buy a Marathon power tool motor from Harbor Freight) or you can go quality (call your local Leeson distributor and whine until they give you 55% discount off of list, but Leeson are top quality US motors.) All this is a little like closing the barn door after the horse has left – the time to figure all these costs was when you were contemplating installing this air compressor in the first place. Still, sometimes you get a compressor when you get it. It can cost an awful lot of money to rework the electrics on a machine, though. Grant Erwin Kirkland, Washington – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I know now that I cannot currently run my 240VAC compressor on 120VAC current (until both phases of 120VAC in the building are connected). Until that time comes (maybe weeks, months, years, decades?)…I can not run the compressor. So either I get another compressor, get a different motor to use in the interim, or move to another location. I spoke with Ingersoll-Rand and they suggested using nothing smaller than a 3HP 115VAC motor. They said 3HP is the smallest they would safely recommend because the compressor pump has splash lubrication and a smaller HP motor might not turn the pump sufficiently fast to provide adequate lubrication. Now, I’m not that hip to motor specs and sources (talk of the devil, I did purchase a book a week ago dealing with electric motors/power transmission) so I’m curious if anyone knows of a source of cheap used, surplus,or rebuilt/rewound motors? Also, another newsgroup that deals specifically with electric motors? Specs: Usage: Air Compressor -1 phase -115VAC -3HP -Hz 60 -3450 RPM (or within 5%) -continuous duty -SF: 1.15 -Ball Bearing -thermal protection: manual reset -size/frame: XR56Y  (or close match) I’ll need a 7/8" keyed shaft for the pulley I anyone has one to sell or knows of a good, inexpensive source, lay ‘er on me. Thanks. Cheers, -Neal

    Response:

    Don’t go there. Many years ago, had a customer who bought almost this exact motor from me in lots of 500 at a time.

    Hi ya Lew, Is your admonition directed against my generic interest in a 115VAC compressor replacement motor as a solution, or directed SPECIFICALLY against the motor sold by  Nothern Tools that Jerry referenced? The motor was heavy, inefficient, and most of all, EXPENSIVE.

    Here’s my stand on these issues: Weight is not an issue: I have a tank (literally) of a compressor with an 80 gallon verticle tank. If only you could have seen us transport and move the thing. Pure folly. The motor by comparison is like an ant crawling over a sycamore tree. Inefficiency also isn’t an issue monetarily (unless it causes functional problems in the electric service itself). My electric meter isn’t hooked up so the Electric Utility Co. has been charging me a fixed rate for the last 6 months and it is very acceptable. If they replace the meter it will be because of the abatement of the aesbestos issue in the basement…and as soon as the electric utility goes in to do the work, then the contractor will go in simutaneously and add the other AC phase to give me 208VAC (…assuming of course the landlord has paid him the money he owes him ;-) . Then…I can remove the El-Cheapo temporary 115VAC motor, sell it (or trundle it down a cliff), and replace my original 230VAC motor with a Buck Booster (the latter from ebay or surplus). Furthermore, my future plans involve moving my work (tools an’ all) into an art studio proper & preferably with attendant 3 Phase service (I’ve suffered from bogus electricity for the past 16 years and enough is enough)…hopefully the move accomplished by sometime in 2002-2003 (and if not…I’ll end up going mad anyway–so none of this will really matter). Expense? It’s dirt cheap: only $90.  Harbor Frieght looks to have the same motor for the same price, with free shipping to boot. Doubt you could get the motor up to speed with out blowing your service off the wall.

    It uses 26 amps. Thats 3.5 more than the stock motor. A #10 guage wire (possibly #8) should handle it, no? Would a 3HP motor be able to talk to the pump? Thing is, I can get by for several months if need be with reduced performance from the compressor. I bought a burly unit because of all the advice I had read suggesting getting more air than one needs because you’ll really dig it and more likely than not, become a full fledged air user eventually maturing into an air afficionado, advancing well beyond the horizens of your immediate needs and stated intentions. If the motor doesn’t deprive the pump of lubrication or burn the building down, it could forseeably serve my immediate  needs: staplers, airbrush, chinzy air hammer, and perhaps pneumatic process experiementation (air cylinders, actuators). It wont be run continuously or everyday, just occasionally (so I say now). Ever hear the expression, "You can’t get there from here"? In a nutshell, that’s your problem.

    Lew, I like fine tools and quality equipment (that’s why I bought an IR rather than a cheaper junker) but this is a quick fix strategy, and only that. Putting aside the negative associations you’ve have with this product in the past, do you think it could work as a stop-gap measure, and nothng more? Do you think it could work?? Btw, here’s the pesky compressor: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600… Thanks. Cheers, Neal

    Response:

      Northern Tool, phone 1-800-556-7885, sells very inexpensive motors. They advertize a 115vac single phase 3 HPmotor for only $90.00.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I know now that I cannot currently run my 240VAC compressor on 120VAC current (until both phases of 120VAC in the building are connected). Until that time comes (maybe weeks, months, years, decades?)…I can not run the compressor. So either I get another compressor, get a different motor to use in the interim, or move to another location. I spoke with Ingersoll-Rand and they suggested using nothing smaller than a 3HP 115VAC motor. They said 3HP is the smallest they would safely recommend because the compressor pump has splash lubrication and a smaller HP motor might not turn the pump sufficiently fast to provide adequate lubrication. Now, I’m not that hip to motor specs and sources (talk of the devil, I did purchase a book a week ago dealing with electric motors/power transmission) so I’m curious if anyone knows of a source of cheap used, surplus,or rebuilt/rewound motors? Also, another newsgroup that deals specifically with electric motors? Specs: Usage: Air Compressor -1 phase -115VAC -3HP -Hz 60 -3450 RPM (or within 5%) -continuous duty -SF: 1.15 -Ball Bearing -thermal protection: manual reset -size/frame: XR56Y  (or close match) I’ll need a 7/8" keyed shaft for the pulley I anyone has one to sell or knows of a good, inexpensive source, lay ‘er on me. Thanks. Cheers, -Neal

    Response:

    Well, I know now that I cannot currently run my 240VAC compressor on 120VAC current (until both phases of 120VAC in the building are connected). Until that time comes (maybe weeks, months, years, decades?)…I can not run the compressor. So either I get another compressor, get a different motor to use in the interim, or move to another location. I spoke with Ingersoll-Rand and they suggested using nothing smaller than a 3HP 115VAC motor. They said 3HP is the smallest they would safely recommend because the compressor pump has splash lubrication and a smaller HP motor might not turn the pump sufficiently fast to provide adequate lubrication. Now, I’m not that hip to motor specs and sources (talk of the devil, I did purchase a book a week ago dealing with electric motors/power transmission) so I’m curious if anyone knows of a source of cheap used, surplus,or rebuilt/rewound motors? Also, another newsgroup that deals specifically with electric motors? Specs: Usage: Air Compressor -1 phase -115VAC -3HP -Hz 60 -3450 RPM (or within 5%) -continuous duty -SF: 1.15 -Ball Bearing -thermal protection: manual reset -size/frame: XR56Y  (or close match) I’ll need a 7/8" keyed shaft for the pulley I anyone has one to sell or knows of a good, inexpensive source, lay ‘er on me. Thanks. Cheers, -Neal

    Response:

    "N." writes: Well, I know now that I cannot currently run my 240VAC compressor on 120VAC current (until both phases of 120VAC in the building are connected). Until that time comes (maybe weeks, months, years, decades?)…I can not run the compressor.

    <snip a sad tale of woe about 115 VAC motors Don’t go there. Many years ago, had a customer who bought almost this exact motor from me in lots of 500 at a time. The motor was heavy, inefficient, and most of all, EXPENSIVE. Doubt you could get the motor up to speed with out blowing your service off the wall. Ever hear the expression, "You can’t get there from here"? In a nutshell, that’s your problem. — Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures

    Response:


  • FS: Badger 480-1 silent airbrush compressor NEW!!!!!

    Question:

    Is the warranty still in effect? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – the "buy it now" price is set at $380 (great price considering these go for over 400 retail), and my reserve is only $340!!! The auction’s still got 6 days left, so bid away! Thanks, Scott

    Response:

    Hi all… i’m auctioning off a Badger 480-1 Million-air silent airbrush compressor on eBay… it has never been used (it hasn’t even been filled with oil), and comes in the original box with all accessories, and a bottle of compressor oil. More detailed specs can be found on my auction page: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1651142191 the "buy it now" price is set at $380 (great price considering these go for over 400 retail), and my reserve is only $340!!! The auction’s still got 6 days left, so bid away!                                                    Thanks,                                                      Scott

    Response:

    Hey Gary, I was asking if the warranty is still in effect, something else to consider in the price, but Scott’s selling it, not me. – Steve Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Steve, Dixie Art is selling your compressor brand new for $409 INCLUDING the shipping.  You may want to rethink your price. Gary

    Is the warranty still in effect? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – the "buy it now" price is set at $380 (great price considering these go for over 400 retail), and my reserve is only $340!!! The auction’s still got 6 days left, so bid away! Thanks, Scott

    Response:


  • Golden airbrush paints???

    Question:

    Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    Thank you everybody who replied to my question regarding the Golden paints. I received a lot of really good information and I do appreciate that very much. Happy spray painting, Ed

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks!! :) I first scuffed the front of the car with a scotch brite pad, then I drew the flames on with chalk, then I taped everything off, and layed down a light coat of white paint then layered the blue on top of it. Then I striped off the tape and went in and shadowed the flames with black paint.  Then when I was done I just clear coated it with some kind of general clear coat paint that is available at orelillys auto parts.  I can’t remeber the name of the paint.  It worked out fine and the paint is still to this day on the car so It worked fine :) hope that helps you out :) Hey Damsell, I finally got to see your Camaro.jpg.  Pretty cool!  Did you laydown the base coat or just go over the factory finish?  What about clearcoating? Thanks, Gary I use golden paints and I really like them.  I have used both aqua flow (which their scented paints bother my nose) and createx, and I like golden much better.  Golden paints seem to be brighter and more vivid but thats just my opinion  :)   I have painted everything from shirts to a car with it and had no problem with the paint at all. Hope this helps :) Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    Thanks!! :) I first scuffed the front of the car with a scotch brite pad, then I drew the flames on with chalk, then I taped everything off, and layed down a light coat of white paint then layered the blue on top of it. Then I striped off the tape and went in and shadowed the flames with black paint.  Then when I was done I just clear coated it with some kind of general clear coat paint that is available at orelillys auto parts.  I can’t remeber the name of the paint.  It worked out fine and the paint is still to this day on the car so It worked fine :) hope that helps you out :) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey Damsell, I finally got to see your Camaro.jpg.  Pretty cool!  Did you laydown the base coat or just go over the factory finish?  What about clearcoating? Thanks, Gary I use golden paints and I really like them.  I have used both aqua flow (which their scented paints bother my nose) and createx, and I like golden much better.  Golden paints seem to be brighter and more vivid but thats just my opinion  :)   I have painted everything from shirts to a car with it and had no problem with the paint at all. Hope this helps :) Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    Well Nerd, Thank you for the quick reply. Of course I do know that white is a nasty ‘color’ to use but with my Com Art paint the pigments even sinks to the bottom of the cup after several minutes which doesn’t make it’s use any easier. I’m sure I shook the bottle well (it even has one of those little balls inside) but still. Thinning didn’t solve the problem either because it took too much thinning to improve the flow (even for a little while) which then caused the opaqueness to be gone. Maybe I’ll try just the white of Golden first though I don’t like the cancer story either. Anyway, I do wish you luck picking up your airbrush again! Ed

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I like Golden, but I also like Com Art, so my input may not help you much. It’s been a couple of years since I picked up my airbrush, but spraying white seemed to be a problem in general, frequently clogging if memory serves. To those with less experience: Always read the labels before spraying and take the necessary precautions. Several of my Golden paints contain "chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer." Yikes! I’m going to jump back into airbrushing this week after a LONG hiatus- I’m painting a large canvas for a friend. Wish me luck!  - nerd Organization: Road Runner Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    Hey Damsell, I finally got to see your Camaro.jpg.  Pretty cool!  Did you laydown the base coat or just go over the factory finish?  What about clearcoating? Thanks, Gary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I use golden paints and I really like them.  I have used both aqua flow (which their scented paints bother my nose) and createx, and I like golden much better.  Golden paints seem to be brighter and more vivid but thats just my opinion  :)   I have painted everything from shirts to a car with it and had no problem with the paint at all. Hope this helps :) Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    I like Golden, but I also like Com Art, so my input may not help you much. It’s been a couple of years since I picked up my airbrush, but spraying white seemed to be a problem in general, frequently clogging if memory serves. To those with less experience: Always read the labels before spraying and take the necessary precautions. Several of my Golden paints contain "chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer." Yikes! I’m going to jump back into airbrushing this week after a LONG hiatus- I’m painting a large canvas for a friend. Wish me luck!  - nerd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Road Runner Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    Ed, Have you tried using a retarder?  It seems to help me out a bit with the Createx, on the rare occaision I am forced to use it.  Hope this helps, Gary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well Nerd, Thank you for the quick reply. Of course I do know that white is a nasty ‘color’ to use but with my Com Art paint the pigments even sinks to the bottom of the cup after several minutes which doesn’t make it’s use any easier. I’m sure I shook the bottle well (it even has one of those little balls inside) but still. Thinning didn’t solve the problem either because it took too much thinning to improve the flow (even for a little while) which then caused the opaqueness to be gone. Maybe I’ll try just the white of Golden first though I don’t like the cancer story either. Anyway, I do wish you luck picking up your airbrush again! Ed I like Golden, but I also like Com Art, so my input may not help you much. It’s been a couple of years since I picked up my airbrush, but spraying white seemed to be a problem in general, frequently clogging if memory serves. To those with less experience: Always read the labels before spraying and take the necessary precautions. Several of my Golden paints contain "chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer." Yikes! I’m going to jump back into airbrushing this week after a LONG hiatus- I’m painting a large canvas for a friend. Wish me luck!  - nerd Organization: Road Runner Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:

    Hi, Ed… i’ve been interested in using Goldens for some time- I first heard about them in the early 90’s. Thanks to this ng (Damsel- you gaave me the good advice), I just found some, and I’m going to try them out real soon. I read a couple of the posts about Golden paints and the cancer hazard. The fact is, all pigments used in all paint is essentially toxic. The cheaper paints used dye based pigment, and some of the dyes are vry toxic. More expensive paints often use ground minerals and/or oxidized metals, which can be just as toxic, but in a different way- lead poisoning is a commonly known hazard, but zinc, titanium, cobalt, and other minerals are just as bad. In these days of Cover Your Butt From Litigation, everybody is listing anything in their products which may be potentially dangerous. The Golden company, I think, is just being as responsible as they can, and I personally appreciate the information they put on their labels. Airbrushers simply need to be sure and wear masks if they don’t want to risk exposure to bad stuff, period. it’s your personal responsibility to limit the amount of exposure to the atomized chemicals you’re blasting into the air all around you when you’re working. To disregard one brand of paint because of the label is silly- they’ll all get you if you don’t take proper precautions. Stanger

    Response:

    Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated.

    I use both the Golden Airbrush Colors, as well as the Golden Fluid Acrylics for all my airbrush and conventional brush painting. The "Airbrush Colors" are pre-formulated, ‘ready to shoot’ paints that are highly pigment loaded for superior color intensity, without sacrificing a good flow, even through the smallest of brushes – they work in my Micron straight out of the bottle. They can be used for just about any application *except* Textile Art – you can make them usable in that capacity by adding Golden GAC 900 Heat-Setting Medium, but it would be advisable to use the Golden Fluid Acrylics for Textile applications instead. The Fluid Acrylics can be formulated by the user for any of the applications the Airbrush Colors can accomplish, including the Textile Art simply by adding the right Medium for the job. Fluid Acrylics are ‘airbrush-ready’ for Textiles by a simple 1:1 mix of color to Golden Airbrush Medium. You can tweak them to suit your needs for any other application by adding the appropriate Medium. Golden has wealth of information online for all their products <http://www.goldenpaints.com/ If you have questions regarding anything you find there, call:  1-888-397-2468 …and ask for Mike  Townsend The Fluid Acrylics are the most versatile paint system I’ve ever used – coupled with the diverse range of Golden Mediums, you are only as limited as your imagination and the effort you wish to invest. Regardless of what *any* paint manufacturer says about the safety aspect of their products, you should *ALWAYS* wear a mask when airbrushing – when atomized for airbrushing, these paints become airborne foreign bodies – they may be labeled "AP Non-Toxic" but as "foreign bodies" they do not belong in your lungs… Ever. Jw

    Response:

    I use golden paints and I really like them.  I have used both aqua flow (which their scented paints bother my nose) and createx, and I like golden much better.  Golden paints seem to be brighter and more vivid but thats just my opinion  :)   I have painted everything from shirts to a car with it and had no problem with the paint at all. Hope this helps :) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Has anyone tried Golden airbrush paints? I recently tried Com Art but I really don’t like it. Especially their white behaves poorly compared to the paints I used before (they are no longer available). I heard Golden should be better but before buying it (I haven’t found it locally yet) I would like to know more about it. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed

    Response:


  • Help! I need a new compressor

    Question:

    Does the compressor allow the paint to pulsate, i had heard this might be a problem with non airbrush specific compressors but i do not know. thanks steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – <Steve,I have a Sears1.5 hp,12gallon costs about $200.00.That’s what I use and from what I’ve seen on some other previous posts a couple others use the same.It’s a little noisy,but I like it,it weighs about 70-75lbs. Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:

    <Steve,I have a Sears1.5 hp,12gallon costs about $200.00.That’s what I use and from what I’ve seen on some other previous posts a couple others use the same.It’s a little noisy,but I like it,it weighs about 70-75lbs.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:

    Steve, no pulsating at all. It runs up to 120psi then shuts off, I think it kicks back on around 90psi. I’m not sure never really watched. Allways steady pressure even sprayin T-shirts at higher pressures.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does the compressor allow the paint to pulsate, i had heard this might be a problem with non airbrush specific compressors but i do not know. thanks steve <Steve,I have a Sears1.5 hp,12gallon costs about $200.00.That’s what I use and from what I’ve seen on some other previous posts a couple others use the same.It’s a little noisy,but I like it,it weighs about 70-75lbs. Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:

    Well it’s come to the point where i need a new compressor.  The badger up and died.  So i need something of a little higher quality then the badger cyclone.  I do illustration and fine art work, and only spray watercolors and thinned acrylics.  I am looking for something that will last me a very long time, require little mainenance and be portable.  (Dorm rooms are not very big you know) And I don’t want it to be too unbelievebly loud.  I have around $200 to spend, any help would be appreciated, espically brands and models you recomend thanks steve

    Response:


  • El Cheapo Silent Air Compressor

    Question:

    Oh, and BTW, Along the same line… hmmm I seem to remember from my Art History classes that most of the masters mixed their paints from stuff that was around them such as flowers and grasses mud etc etc etc, CHEAPLY, and not many people can argue with what that Van Gogh sold for or those picassos where all he used was a twig and ink or ballpoint and napikins. (of course they could say that Picasso had already made his name, but then again, his blue period is noted for the blues because that was supposedly the only color he could afford at the time) . Materials do not make the artist, but they can help the artist to make! And you can quote me on that one! There is a difference between an artist who paints to paint and a "commercial" artist who paints to sell some other product.  Such as a Tshirt painter, who paints to sell T-shirts compared to a T-shirt artist who paints on T-shirts just because they are cheap media and utilitarian to boot! But then again…..of course we live in a world that respects not the substance but the sell and the hype, don’t we? RexBear … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – To the smartass who made the comment about using a cheap compressor to make high end art, you obviously have never made a living at art. Art is a business like any other. My tools are critical to my living. I would not use something that didn’t work properly. On the other hand, what is wrong with saving money wherever you can? Just because I create and sell $15,000 paintings doesn’t mean I have to piss away my profit. Ciao, The Renaissance Man

    Response:

    It is my opinion that if you are using only one airbrush at 60-100psi then you are using way too much air. Using that high pressure just increases overspray. use the absouloute minumum.

    I agree with you if you are referring to fine art airbrushing. T-shirt artists need the high pressures for what they are doing. I use one airbrush and spray at 60 psi all the time. Mike "Truth is so obscure in these times and falsehood so established, that unless we love the truth, we cannot know it." – Blaise Pascal * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

    Response:

    hmmm let’s see the quote……High end on the cheap……uhhhh could that be a restating of …. <<Quoted directly from your post! Hey Airheads,

    <most of the message deleted for length but you can always go back to see the rest!  RB For the purists, I am creating fine art with this setup and have been doing so for 8 years professionally. I sell paintings on a regular basis that range from $800 up to $15,000. This setup will work for any application with the possible exception of a large spray gun. Ciao

    … To the smartass who made the comment about using a cheap compressor to make high end art, you obviously have never made a living at art. Art is a business like any other. My tools are critical to my living. I would not use something that didn’t work properly. On the other hand, what is wrong with saving money wherever you can? Just because I create and sell $15,000 paintings doesn’t mean I have to piss away my profit. Ciao, The Renaissance Man

    I think I just got my hand bit for agreeing with someone……I gotta Watch Out out here these people are Touchy Touchy Touchy!!!  Think I’ll rename some of these posts to  Alt.airbrush_chip on the shoulder.art ! RexBear

    Response:

    The homemade silent air compresser using a refrigeration unit will put out as much air as you need. If you need 60-100psi continous, ask you appliance expert for the right compressor. A commercial unti may be better than the household type. It is my opinion that if you are using only one airbrush at 60-100psi then you are using way too much air. Using that high pressure just increases overspray. use the absouloute minumum. I use an Iwata HP-C and I never need more than 30 psi, and usally