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  • Air sourse

    Question:

    Cory, If you do use the dive tank, you’ll need a 1st stage regulator to mount on it. This will bring the pressure down to about 8 bars (116 psi). As Shiva mentioned the dive shop may have a used one for a fair price but keep in mind that 2500 – 3000 psi is a dangerous pressure to work with if uncontrolled. This is why the dive shop probably won’t refill your tank if it isn’t periodically pressure tested and / or if the first stage looks unreliable. Knocking a full tank over or hitting the first stage regulator can cause the first stage to burst off and it will shoot through pretty much anything including walls. Once again, as long as you know what you are doing it’s no problem but keep that in mind. To regulate the pressure from 116 psi to your working pressure can be done with a normal pressure regulator. The advantage you’ll have is that dive air normally is a very dry so you may not need much of a filter unit, depending on the fill quality of the dive shop you go to to refill the tank. Hope this helps, Ed

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have talked to a dive shop and they charge 5$ to fill a tank :)  I just need a hookup and regulator. thanks :) CS  ok,  just for grins… price a CO2 setup.. tell the dive shop what you are wanting to do, and see what they got in USED stuff-NOT suitable for diving…. perhaps he has a reg that can be modified to get you down to the merely obscene pressures, say 100psi, where the regular regulators can take over. just a thought.      –Shiva–

    Response:

    Well Spoken maddmaxx…

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – co2 is a better choice, for reliability and in this case safety! maddmaxx has spoken Cory, If you do use the dive tank, you’ll need a 1st stage regulator to mount on it. This will bring the pressure down to about 8 bars (116 psi). As Shiva mentioned the dive shop may have a used one for a fair price but keep in mind that 2500 – 3000 psi is a dangerous pressure to work with if uncontrolled. This is why the dive shop probably won’t refill your tank if it isn’t periodically pressure tested and / or if the first stage looks unreliable. Knocking a full tank over or hitting the first stage regulator can cause the first stage to burst off and it will shoot through pretty much anything including walls. Once again, as long as you know what you are doing it’s no problem but keep that in mind. To regulate the pressure from 116 psi to your working pressure can be done with a normal pressure regulator. The advantage you’ll have is that dive air normally is a very dry so you may not need much of a filter unit, depending on the fill quality of the dive shop you go to to refill the tank. Hope this helps, Ed I have talked to a dive shop and they charge 5$ to fill a tank :)  I just need a hookup and regulator. thanks :) CS  ok,  just for grins… price a CO2 setup.. tell the dive shop what you are wanting to do, and see what they got in USED stuff-NOT suitable for diving…. perhaps he has a reg that can be modified to get you down to the merely obscene pressures, say 100psi, where the regular regulators can take over. just a thought.      –Shiva–

    Response:

    I’ve got a scuba tank for my sirbrush, does anybody know off had how much a reg and hook up is for this? thanks  2 things, are  you going to have it filled at the dive shops? 2500-3,000 PSI OR are you going to have it filled elsewhere makes a world of difference in my book      –Shiva–

     I have talked to a dive shop and they charge 5$ to fill a tank :)  I just need a hookup and regulator. thanks :) CS

    Response:

    I’ve got a scuba tank for my sirbrush, does anybody know off had how much a reg and hook up is for this? thanks — Cory Sarafinchan Splat Graphics Splat Graphic Designs 2002 SGD Racing http://members.tripod.ca/splatgraphics/

    Response:

    We’ve heard this tank question so many times. The fact of the matter is a diving tank is a waste of your time and money if you have to pay to fill it. If you need to get a regulator, the go for a CO2 system. Most dive tanks hold around 70-90 Cu Ft….a Paasche VL #3 tip uses around .7 to 1.0 cu ft per miinute. Work it out mate, devide 90 by .7. That will give you an idea of how long that tank will last you till you need a refill. If you only want to squirt a bit of paint on a model once in awhile, it’ll work. If you are serious about doing airbrush art work, then save up you bickies for a simple compressor or CO2 tank system. Ken

    Response:

    co2 is a better choice, for reliability and in this case safety! maddmaxx has spoken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cory, If you do use the dive tank, you’ll need a 1st stage regulator to mount on it. This will bring the pressure down to about 8 bars (116 psi). As Shiva mentioned the dive shop may have a used one for a fair price but keep in mind that 2500 – 3000 psi is a dangerous pressure to work with if uncontrolled. This is why the dive shop probably won’t refill your tank if it isn’t periodically pressure tested and / or if the first stage looks unreliable. Knocking a full tank over or hitting the first stage regulator can cause the first stage to burst off and it will shoot through pretty much anything including walls. Once again, as long as you know what you are doing it’s no problem but keep that in mind. To regulate the pressure from 116 psi to your working pressure can be done with a normal pressure regulator. The advantage you’ll have is that dive air normally is a very dry so you may not need much of a filter unit, depending on the fill quality of the dive shop you go to to refill the tank. Hope this helps, Ed I have talked to a dive shop and they charge 5$ to fill a tank :)  I just need a hookup and regulator. thanks :) CS  ok,  just for grins… price a CO2 setup.. tell the dive shop what you are wanting to do, and see what they got in USED stuff-NOT suitable for diving…. perhaps he has a reg that can be modified to get you down to the merely obscene pressures, say 100psi, where the regular regulators can take over. just a thought.      –Shiva–

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