Today's Articles

HOC Candys

Question:

Sorry for the misspell! I bought one of those small kits from Coast Airbrush. It’s the Intensifier Kandy Koncentrates. I just thined them with RU-311 Urethane reducer. That’s a no-no isn’t it? Should put some SG-100 in first then a little reducer, yes? I think last time I used there stuff it was the base urethane and it sprayed could with one pass. That may be where I’m getting confused. I paint in too many medias I guess. Can’t remember them all. I’ll try running psi up and add a little SG-100 see what that does. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – "Mouse" wrote… Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help? It’s Hawgeye with a G! Are you using the Kandy concentrate mixed with SG100 or the UK kandy? First you have to make sure it’s mixed really well. Typically for airbrush use you need to thin it about 1:1. The key to working with candies is that you build up the color slowly. It may take several passes to get the color you want. Don’t try to get it in one or two blasts. It’ll run, puddle and be uneven. Also you may want to boost up you air pressure to around 35 or 40 and don’t pull all the way back on the trigger. Let more air come out than paint.

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Response:

It’s gonna take more than a little SG100. SG100 is the actual paint. It’s clear but it’s paint nonetheless. The Intensifier is just the tint or color. You have to mix the SG and the Intensifier first then add reducer as needed.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry for the misspell! I bought one of those small kits from Coast Airbrush. It’s the Intensifier Kandy Koncentrates. I just thined them with RU-311 Urethane reducer. That’s a no-no isn’t it? Should put some SG-100 in first then a little reducer, yes? I think last time I used there stuff it was the base urethane and it sprayed could with one pass. That may be where I’m getting confused. I paint in too many medias I guess. Can’t remember them all. I’ll try running psi up and add a little SG-100 see what that does. "Mouse" wrote… Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help? It’s Hawgeye with a G! Are you using the Kandy concentrate mixed with SG100 or the UK kandy? First you have to make sure it’s mixed really well. Typically for airbrush use you need to thin it about 1:1. The key to working with candies is that you build up the color slowly. It may take several passes to get the color you want. Don’t try to get it in one or two blasts. It’ll run, puddle and be uneven. Also you may want to boost up you air pressure to around 35 or 40 and don’t pull all the way back on the trigger. Let more air come out than paint. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

Is that 1:1 SG100 to intensifier and than reduce that mix with RU311? Thanks, Kirk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No problem!!! Any time. Ok that’s about what I just did and it’s spraying alot better!!!!! It’s not even clogging on the tip! Thanks Hawgeye! It’s gonna take more than a little SG100. SG100 is the actual paint. It’s clear but it’s paint nonetheless. The Intensifier is just the tint or color. You have to mix the SG and the Intensifier first then add reducer as needed. Sorry for the misspell! I bought one of those small kits from Coast Airbrush. It’s the Intensifier Kandy Koncentrates. I just thined them with RU-311 Urethane reducer. That’s a no-no isn’t it? Should put some SG-100 in first then a little reducer, yes? I think last time I used there stuff it was the base urethane and it sprayed could with one pass. That may be where I’m getting confused. I paint in too many medias I guess. Can’t remember them all. I’ll try running psi up and add a little SG-100 see what that does. "Mouse" wrote… Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help? It’s Hawgeye with a G! Are you using the Kandy concentrate mixed with SG100 or the UK kandy? First you have to make sure it’s mixed really well. Typically for airbrush use you need to thin it about 1:1. The key to working with candies is that you build up the color slowly. It may take several passes to get the color you want. Don’t try to get it in one or two blasts. It’ll run, puddle and be uneven. Also you may want to boost up you air pressure to around 35 or 40 and don’t pull all the way back on the trigger. Let more air come out than paint. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—- —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

Ok that’s about what I just did and it’s spraying alot better!!!!! It’s not even clogging on the tip! Thanks Hawgeye! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s gonna take more than a little SG100. SG100 is the actual paint. It’s clear but it’s paint nonetheless. The Intensifier is just the tint or color. You have to mix the SG and the Intensifier first then add reducer as needed. Sorry for the misspell! I bought one of those small kits from Coast Airbrush. It’s the Intensifier Kandy Koncentrates. I just thined them with RU-311 Urethane reducer. That’s a no-no isn’t it? Should put some SG-100 in first then a little reducer, yes? I think last time I used there stuff it was the base urethane and it sprayed could with one pass. That may be where I’m getting confused. I paint in too many medias I guess. Can’t remember them all. I’ll try running psi up and add a little SG-100 see what that does. "Mouse" wrote… Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help? It’s Hawgeye with a G! Are you using the Kandy concentrate mixed with SG100 or the UK kandy? First you have to make sure it’s mixed really well. Typically for airbrush use you need to thin it about 1:1. The key to working with candies is that you build up the color slowly. It may take several passes to get the color you want. Don’t try to get it in one or two blasts. It’ll run, puddle and be uneven. Also you may want to boost up you air pressure to around 35 or 40 and don’t pull all the way back on the trigger. Let more air come out than paint. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

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Response:

Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help? —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

No problem!!! Any time.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ok that’s about what I just did and it’s spraying alot better!!!!! It’s not even clogging on the tip! Thanks Hawgeye! It’s gonna take more than a little SG100. SG100 is the actual paint. It’s clear but it’s paint nonetheless. The Intensifier is just the tint or color. You have to mix the SG and the Intensifier first then add reducer as needed. Sorry for the misspell! I bought one of those small kits from Coast Airbrush. It’s the Intensifier Kandy Koncentrates. I just thined them with RU-311 Urethane reducer. That’s a no-no isn’t it? Should put some SG-100 in first then a little reducer, yes? I think last time I used there stuff it was the base urethane and it sprayed could with one pass. That may be where I’m getting confused. I paint in too many medias I guess. Can’t remember them all. I’ll try running psi up and add a little SG-100 see what that does. "Mouse" wrote… Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help? It’s Hawgeye with a G! Are you using the Kandy concentrate mixed with SG100 or the UK kandy? First you have to make sure it’s mixed really well. Typically for airbrush use you need to thin it about 1:1. The key to working with candies is that you build up the color slowly. It may take several passes to get the color you want. Don’t try to get it in one or two blasts. It’ll run, puddle and be uneven. Also you may want to boost up you air pressure to around 35 or 40 and don’t pull all the way back on the trigger. Let more air come out than paint. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—- —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

"Mouse" wrote… Hey Hawkeye maybe this is in your area. I’m painting a picture on metal for my art project useing HOC and I’m spraying the candy colors and can’t seem to get it to spray right! To thick it spits, too thin it makes puddles. I can’t find the happy spot. Mixing with there 311 reducer, spraying at about 20 to 25 lbs. Close detail work using my Custom micron. Any help?

It’s Hawgeye with a G! Are you using the Kandy concentrate mixed with SG100 or the UK kandy? First you have to make sure it’s mixed really well. Typically for airbrush use you need to thin it about 1:1. The key to working with candies is that you build up the color slowly. It may take several passes to get the color you want. Don’t try to get it in one or two blasts. It’ll run, puddle and be uneven. Also you may want to boost up you air pressure to around 35 or 40 and don’t pull all the way back on the trigger. Let more air come out than paint. — hawgeye

No comments Airbrush Art
Hi all from Paul Corfield

Question:

Hi all, Just letting you all know the airbrush will be firing up real soon after nearly a years lay off. Been working in oils and that is pretty much where my main work is these days but decided it’s time to do some new pin-ups but they will be in oils too and they will be a mixture of airbrush and brush techniques. The pin-up site is back up and running too. Both my sites are http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

Response:

Hey good to hear! Still seems to be a few missing from around these parts.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all, Just letting you all know the airbrush will be firing up real soon after nearly a years lay off. Been working in oils and that is pretty much where my main work is these days but decided it’s time to do some new pin-ups but they will be in oils too and they will be a mixture of airbrush and brush techniques. The pin-up site is back up and running too. Both my sites are http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

Response:

I think all newsgroups get all the stupid spam! Let’s just not pay attention to it. And don’t click on any of it! So what’s every one up to antway? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello to all….Welcome back Paul…. This Newsgroup / Forum has gone to the birds with all the spam crap….. Though I stick my head in hear now and then to see what’s going on…. Yes..haven’t seen you around for a while…. We need to get this forum up and around again… Vern Organization: ntl Cablemodem News Service Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hi all, Just letting you all know the airbrush will be firing up real soon after nearly a years lay off. Been working in oils and that is pretty much where my main work is these days but decided it’s time to do some new pin-ups but they will be in oils too and they will be a mixture of airbrush and brush techniques. The pin-up site is back up and running too. Both my sites are http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

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Response:

Good to see some old names cropping up. Yes, the spam seems to be worse than when I used to be a regular visitor a while back. Mind you I average well over 6000 spam emails per day in my own in-box. Luckily all my own stuff is filtered out so it’s no big deal. I’m going to start airbrushing a new pin-up later this week. It will be airbrushed oils on masonite. Should be fun. Paul. www.paulcorfield.com www.littlemisspinup.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I think all newsgroups get all the stupid spam! Let’s just not pay attention to it. And don’t click on any of it! So what’s every one up to antway? Hello to all….Welcome back Paul…. This Newsgroup / Forum has gone to the birds with all the spam crap….. Though I stick my head in hear now and then to see what’s going on…. Yes..haven’t seen you around for a while…. We need to get this forum up and around again… Vern Organization: ntl Cablemodem News Service Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hi all, Just letting you all know the airbrush will be firing up real soon after nearly a years lay off. Been working in oils and that is pretty much where my main work is these days but decided it’s time to do some new pin-ups but they will be in oils too and they will be a mixture of airbrush and brush techniques. The pin-up site is back up and running too. Both my sites are http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

it’s me. i never left, not leftly yet. same irritable sense of humour. cheers an let the paint flow.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hey Paul! Nice to see you back! Been meaning to write back to you but been busy. Had surgery for a hernia been off work for 3 weeks now and haven’t done to much. Can’t believe how sore I still am. I sent a picture of my last work for the Art Center. I did another pastel. It’s a little political. Let me know if you get the meaning. Since I’m off work I’m going to try and airbrush somthing for the next show. I’ll post if I get it done. Let me know if you guys see the picture. Hey good to hear! Still seems to be a few missing from around these parts. Hi all, Just letting you all know the airbrush will be firing up real soon after nearly a years lay off. Been working in oils and that is pretty much where my main work is these days but decided it’s time to do some new pin-ups but they will be in oils too and they will be a mixture of airbrush and brush techniques. The pin-up site is back up and running too. Both my sites are http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

—-

Response:

Hello to all….Welcome back Paul…. This Newsgroup / Forum has gone to the birds with all the spam crap….. Though I stick my head in hear now and then to see what’s going on…. Yes..haven’t seen you around for a while…. We need to get this forum up and around again… Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: ntl Cablemodem News Service Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hi all, Just letting you all know the airbrush will be firing up real soon after nearly a years lay off. Been working in oils and that is pretty much where my main work is these days but decided it’s time to do some new pin-ups but they will be in oils too and they will be a mixture of airbrush and brush techniques. The pin-up site is back up and running too. Both my sites are http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
loud compressor and water like hell

Question:

Thanks for repplying Brian, but I have one of those oiless pile of crap. I didn’t realize it until I took it out of the box…I should have returned it. It’s one of the diagphram type compressors…loud as crap….I hate it…I feel like just giving it away.. it’s okay to fill up a flat tire or something, not something you could use in between coats of paint. Shoot it’s so damn loud….I swear I need hearing protection. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Bell Sympatico Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hi Vern: I just got finished for the day and I’m still not even warm from fixin my bigtruck in 10 below zero cuzz it was starting and stalling, starting and stalling, starting and stalling all damn day. It’s happened before so I shouldn’t be surprised. Anyways I read this Newgroup and saw so many questions while my brain was buzzing with info near the subjects here and I just started typing away. I think that compressor of yours sounds like it needs an oil change. Also the answer to your question about draining water or whatever you call that stuff that builds up like spit , is yes you must drain daily if you use it daily because water can kill the rings inside the compressor cylinder which is pumping up and down . If you use the compressor alot your oil will eventually start to collect water as water remains on the cylinder wall and is driven not just up but down into the compressor oil reservoir, then it will wear abnormally on the cylinder walls, the rings and could even wear the piston itself if it is let go for a long period of time. Maybe this will keep her quiet: Drain the compressor airtank, then change the compressor oil, start it up and let the tank fill once to avoid running it too much, then drain the compressor oil again and refill it both times with fresh oil and see if you notice any smooth runnings. If not I would say that it is too late. I always use 10W 30 motor oil and I’ve never had any problem even if I run my big beast all day on a paint job or two. Goodluck anyways.

Response:

Hi Vern: I just got finished for the day and I’m still not even warm from fixin my bigtruck in 10 below zero cuzz it was starting and stalling, starting and stalling, starting and stalling all damn day. It’s happened before so I shouldn’t be surprised. Anyways I read this Newgroup and saw so many questions while my brain was buzzing with info near the subjects here and I just started typing away. I think that compressor of yours sounds like it needs an oil change. Also the answer to your question about draining water or whatever you call that stuff that builds up like spit , is yes you must drain daily if you use it daily because water can kill the rings inside the compressor cylinder which is pumping up and down . If you use the compressor alot your oil will eventually start to collect water as water remains on the cylinder wall and is driven not just up but down into the compressor oil reservoir, then it will wear abnormally on the cylinder walls, the rings and could even wear the piston itself if it is let go for a long period of time. Maybe this will keep her quiet: Drain the compressor airtank, then change the compressor oil, start it up and let the tank fill once to avoid running it too much, then drain the compressor oil again and refill it both times with fresh oil and see if you notice any smooth runnings. If not I would say that it is too late. I always use 10W 30 motor oil and I’ve never had any problem even if I run my big beast all day on a paint job or two. Goodluck anyways.

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
Question about Stabilo Pencils (Leaving Marks)

Question:

Are u talking after u clear it u have this mark? If so it could be the paint it being repelled by the pencil like when u put crayon on an egg before u color it. I never had the problem. But anytime I used a stabilo was when pin striping. And after the oneshot dried the next day I used some watered down buffing compound like for swirl marks and it takes it away. Now if I was to use the pencil on something that I was going to clear coat I would either use the compound watered down or use dupont final wipe watered down and wipe light. That’s just my thoughts though. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups —= East/West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—

Response:

Anyone ever had marks left in a fully cured painted surface from Stabilo pencils? I have this problem with a few projets I’ve done. Wipe the Stabilo away with water, and there seems to be a marred like mark- indentation in the surface left behind. Keep in mind that I only use very light pressure when laying out with these pencils. Anyone have a solution on how to remove em’? PBR

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – PBR NO solution for that, but I’ve had marks left behind, almost like a stain in the substrate, paint. Sorry I don’t have a solution Vern Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Anyone ever had marks left in a fully cured painted surface from Stabilo pencils? I have this problem with a few projets I’ve done. Wipe the Stabilo away with water, and there seems to be a marred like mark- indentation in the surface left behind. Keep in mind that I only use very light pressure when laying out with these pencils. Anyone have a solution on how to remove em’? PBR

Ya, thats it. I cannot find anyone that talks about this problem. Thanks for the reply…….PBR

Response:

PBR NO solution for that, but I’ve had marks left behind, almost like a stain in the substrate, paint. Sorry I don’t have a solution Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Anyone ever had marks left in a fully cured painted surface from Stabilo pencils? I have this problem with a few projets I’ve done. Wipe the Stabilo away with water, and there seems to be a marred like mark- indentation in the surface left behind. Keep in mind that I only use very light pressure when laying out with these pencils. Anyone have a solution on how to remove em’? PBR

Response:

Are u talking after u clear it u have this mark? If so it could be the paint it being repelled by the pencil like when u put crayon on an egg before u color it. I never had the problem. But anytime I used a stabilo was when pin striping. And after the oneshot dried the next day I used some watered down buffing compound like for swirl marks and it takes it away. Now if I was to use the pencil on something that I was going to clear coat I would either use the compound watered down or use dupont final wipe watered down and wipe light. That’s just my thoughts though. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups —= East/West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—

No, these marks are in the paint before clear. I will heed your advice….Thanks! PBR

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
Compressor / Drain it or not?

Question:

Send it back.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

Response:

Thanks Steve….yes thank you! I need someone who understands what I mean when I say "L O U D"! Damn…you do it better. Could you scream for me again…I think I hurt my throat….hehe. All kiddin aside…I’m thinking about trying to get my money back from Sams Club. This is the reason for my question….I hate to turn my compressor on and have it scream to build up internal pressure from 0 psi to 155 psi. Damn…that’s a long screaming wait. I literally have to walk out of the garage while it boots up (so to speak). Thanks Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art That is one of many problums with the Oil less new designs. They just SCREAM. I won’t have one. Bought one for a fiilm I was doing in the east YEARS ago .. it was from SEARS. compressed just swell… sounded like a missle shoot to MARS. I just couldn’t take it. Junked that one and bought a " old ": pumper from a second hand store. I lived with the " chunketa – pumputa " a lot better than the " WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME .. STOP .. ONCE MORE WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME and on and on." Steve E. I drain all my compressors once a week. Lest I haven’t been running them. I also change the Oil in them once a year .. The gas one’s I change oil in the motor every 6 months. the compressor once a year. Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks Steve….yes thank you! I need someone who understands what I mean when I say "L O U D"! Damn…you do it better. Could you scream for me again…I think I hurt my throat….hehe. All kiddin aside…I’m thinking about trying to get my money back from Sams Club. This is the reason for my question….I hate to turn my compressor on and have it scream to build up internal pressure from 0 psi to 155 psi. Damn…that’s a long screaming wait. I literally have to walk out of the garage while it boots up (so to speak). Thanks Vern Organization: SBC http://yahoo.sbc.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art That is one of many problums with the Oil less new designs. They just SCREAM. I won’t have one. Bought one for a fiilm I was doing in the east YEARS ago .. it was from SEARS. compressed just swell… sounded like a missle shoot to MARS. I just couldn’t take it. Junked that one and bought a " old ": pumper from a second hand store. I lived with the " chunketa – pumputa " a lot better than the " WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME .. STOP .. ONCE MORE WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME and on and on." Steve E. I drain all my compressors once a week. Lest I haven’t been running them. I also change the Oil in them once a year .. The gas one’s I change oil in the motor every 6 months. the compressor once a year. Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

I don’t think anyone drains the air from the tank unless they plan to leave it unused for an extend period of time. That being months. Doug

Response:

Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

Response:

It’s a "coleman"…yes like lantern….hehe believe it or not. Damn thing’s loud! I mean I would have to yell over the sound of it to talk to you if you were standing next to me, and we both were standing next to it. Damn…. Hmmm…that room sounds great. …. Hehe…I wish I could just change some items on my old compressor… that was a real good one by Speedaire. But the damn….tank has rust holes in it…you know how dangerous that can be. Note: We need to see more airbrush posts on here…all I see lately is this spam porn crap. On a lighter note….. Aloha All….yes….from the islands. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Comcast Online Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art "Vern Enriques" wrote… Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I installed an automatic tank drain. All of my piping branches also have manual drains that I drain daily or depending on how humid it is and how much use it gets I may drain them a couple times a day. Keep in mind I’m using my compressor for air tools, sandblasting, paint guns and other assorted body work goodies. I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. Mine is loud but I’ve gotten used to it and I built a small closet like room for it so that helped quite a bit. I’m thinking about returning it. What kind is it? Mine has served me well over the years but in the past month I’ve had to replace almost everything except the tank and the motor. It’s paid for itself though, many times over. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com

Response:

155psi is probably the factory set point on the pressure switch for when the compressor motor turns off once the pressure in the tank reaches that point. Once you start removing air from the tank, the pressure in the tank will drop. When the tank pressure drops to 130psi (for example) then the motor will kick on and add air to the tank until it reaches 155 psi then it turns off again. These are factory settings on the pressure switch. Some are adjustable and some aren’t. Adjusting it will not necessarily make it run more or less. If you only require 100 psi at your airbrush then put a regulator in the supply line (as close to the airbrush as possible). This will decrease the amount of air volume being removed from the tank therefore increasing the time between on/off cycles of the compressor. If you could set the cut-in setting (the point when the motor turns on) lower and keep the cut-out setting (the point where the motor turns off) high then the compressor wouldn’t turn on as often but it would run longer when it does turn on and this would cause more heat creating more water in the tank. Setting both points lower won’t change anything because you’re still pulling the same amount of air from the tank regardless of what the cut-in/cut-out points are. Unless those points were below what your demand is. Then the compressor would run continuously. The only real way to decrease how often the compressor cycles is to lower your air requirement (with regulator) and/or increase your air supply volume(bigger tank). The later not being very practical in most cases. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -"Vern Enriques" wrote… Hey Ken…..yeah I really don’t need 155 psi for sure…but there’s a sign on it saying not to touch the factory setting…am I misreading the thing? I would love to drop it down some….then it would shut down sooner… It’s SOOOO loud. Vern A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi?

Response:

A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi? Yes, you should drain it often…moisture trap every day and the compressor at least once a week…. I drain my moisture trap when I start the compressor up in the morning. I drain the tank at the end of the day, just kill the power, open the drain and leave. When you are ready to use it again, close the tap, fire it up, drain the moisture trap and you are ready to make magic. Ken

Response:

"Vern Enriques" wrote… Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that?

I installed an automatic tank drain. All of my piping branches also have manual drains that I drain daily or depending on how humid it is and how much use it gets I may drain them a couple times a day. Keep in mind I’m using my compressor for air tools, sandblasting, paint guns and other assorted body work goodies. I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud.

Mine is loud but I’ve gotten used to it and I built a small closet like room for it so that helped quite a bit. I’m thinking about returning it.

What kind is it? Mine has served me well over the years but in the past month I’ve had to replace almost everything except the tank and the motor. It’s paid for itself though, many times over. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com

Response:

Hey Ken…..yeah I really don’t need 155 psi for sure…but there’s a sign on it saying not to touch the factory setting…am I misreading the thing? I would love to drop it down some….then it would shut down sooner… It’s SOOOO loud. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: http://groups.google.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi? Yes, you should drain it often…moisture trap every day and the compressor at least once a week…. I drain my moisture trap when I start the compressor up in the morning. I drain the tank at the end of the day, just kill the power, open the drain and leave. When you are ready to use it again, close the tap, fire it up, drain the moisture trap and you are ready to make magic. Ken

Response:

That is one of many problums with the Oil less new designs. They just SCREAM. I won’t have one. Bought one for a fiilm I was doing in the east YEARS ago .. it was from SEARS. compressed just swell… sounded like a missle shoot to MARS. I just couldn’t take it. Junked that one and bought a " old ": pumper from a second hand store. I lived with the " chunketa – pumputa " a lot better than the " WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME .. STOP .. ONCE MORE WHIRRRRRLLEESCREAMMME and on and on." Steve E. I drain all my compressors once a week. Lest I haven’t been running them. I also change the Oil in them once a year .. The gas one’s I change oil in the motor every 6 months. the compressor once a year. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Those of you who use an ‘industrial size’ compressor… do you drain your compressor daily? Or…how do you work that? I really hate my new compressor….it’s almost like a huge diagphram type compressor…..it’s so damn loud. I’m thinking about returning it. Vern

Response:

Hey Vern, I set them down all the time, but you need to be careful as the pressures are set at the factory…The more expensive units usually have a twin spring setup in the pressure box. If you are not sure, take it to a professional as it’s a 20 minute job. If it’s a direct drive, these units really do quite down by lowering the pressure and slowing down the motor…again a simple job for a pro. If you want to do it, MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF and UN PLUG IT!!! the switch boxes are usually HOT! Setting the pressure demands down, saves wear and tear on the electric motor as there is no need to drive the compressor pump so high. The higher the pressure, the harder the motor works. I’ve dropped down a lot of Jun Airs as many were designed for dental work and run up to 140 psi (TC 50 motors). I have one in my shop I just got yesterday, and I’ll drop down to 90 max and kick in at 70 as the guy does the odd shirt from time to time. Doing this can extend the life of the electric motor, but remember the manufacturer designed the unit to operate at 155psi so if you can live with the noise, you’ll still be fine. Ken

Response:

Thanks for the insight hawgeye……that makes a hell of a lot of sense. Actually this is how I have it set up. I wish I could add a larger tank….but probably not, as if I had the way to do that…I would have kept my old parts…because they are all good. That’s the reason I got a new compressor is because my old compressor tank rusted through. But now I can decrease my requirement using a regulator…I have one at the gun so that should do it. Thanks again. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Comcast Online Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art The only real way to decrease how often the compressor cycles is to lower your air requirement (with regulator) and/or increase your air supply volume(bigger tank). The later not being very practical in most cases. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com www.stealer-dealer.com "Vern Enriques" wrote… Hey Ken…..yeah I really don’t need 155 psi for sure…but there’s a sign on it saying not to touch the factory setting…am I misreading the thing? I would love to drop it down some….then it would shut down sooner… It’s SOOOO loud. Vern A question, do you really need 155psi??? Why not set the unit down a bit to say 90-120 psi?

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
Compressors, why lie about it?

Question:

You’d have to add an airbrush regulator/gauge/moisture trap. Get one of those plus a coupler that will plug into the compressor with 1/4" npt male threads on the other side to put into the regulator. Then you’ve got it all adapted & ready to airbrush. David Kennesaw, GA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know this is pretty long, but I’m not trying to BS anyone, just open some eyes on the compressor market. The best units in my 30 some years has been my jun air and my Hansa aero pro oil bath compressors. I also have an old belt drive 12cfm (high priced 11 years ago) at the factory that I’m leaving with them. I hope this helps some people out. Later….Ken I am going to start airbrushing soon. I have an old Sears compressor that works great for me driving air tools, filling tires, and just being a source of air. It has accurate gauges and dome loader regulator. It has a volume tank that is about ten gallons. I know it is overkill, but is this compressor okay to use for airbrushing, too, or should I spend more for just a dedicated airbrush compressor? Also I live in the desert, and I have yet to get noticeable water out of the bleeder valve on the bottom of the volume tank. We have very low humidity. Steve

Response:

I’ve been taking stock of my old airbrush equipment, as I’m going to fully retire from Australian Airbrush Co. and just paint. One thing I have serviced since they came out are those new Sparmax compressors. They are sold around the world by everybody and his brother, such as iwtata, badger, createx, Simair, etc. I worked with the company on these units for the past five years and I realise not one of the original units still work! That’s right,in fact not one lasted even two years. To be honest I used them almost every day and not as a hobby machine, but I never over heated one or over loaded one. I’ve stipped down two and added "oil bath motors" to each. The most common form of misrepresentation running rampant with these compressors relates to the proper sizing and duty cycle of the compressor. The misrepresentation taking place is not coming from the manufacturers, it’s coming from the resellers wishing to maximize profits by including the least expensive, least durable units of the manufacturer’s line they happen to resell. Don’t misunderstand. I am not saying that these smaller less expensive units are not fully functional and capable of doing the job, they simply were not designed for continuous commercial daily use. Some have auto shut off capabilities, overheat shut offs, regulators with or without moisture traps, or combinations of features but are designed for intermittent use at best! The one thing they all have in common is heat build up. Heat is the compressors worst enemy. To add insult to injury these machines are located inside the spray room and are constantly bombarded with chemical over spray that turns into a gummy, difficult to remove residue when exposed to hot surfaces furthering the problem. You should see the inside of these units when used for commerical airbrush sun tan spray. I’ve even took photos of the pistons to show the retailer he should buy a remote regulator to keep the units out of the spray area. The majority of these machines won’t last through the warranty period if used continuously day after day on a weekly basis. Many of the supply companies will not honor the one-year warranty with the excuse:"this machine was used for purposes other than which it was intended and will not be covered under warranty." I’ve sold hundreds (no joke) of these units, with most people very happy with them. The make up artist and model people love them…that being said I would not consider one for my next years of full time painting. In the eighties I used CO2 painting full time. Now, I have a (co2)bottle in my studio and two home built silent air (oil bath) compressors. I know this is pretty long, but I’m not trying to BS anyone, just open some eyes on the compressor market. The best units in my 30 some years has been my jun air and my Hansa aero pro oil bath compressors. I also have an old belt drive 12cfm (high priced 11 years ago) at the factory that I’m leaving with them. I hope this helps some people out. Later….Ken

Response:

Steve, I run a "Contractor Grade" portable compressor. It is 3.5Hp and puts out close to 6.0 cfm. It works great for my airbrushes and touch up gun. I use the built in regulator to keep the pressure down to 20-40 psi depending on what I’m doing. I also use an inline water trap and filter. Put you money into other equipment and a top notch water trap and filter rather than a new compressor. The airbrush will use so little air that the compressor will run very little.

Response:

Hey Steve, I am going to start airbrushing soon. I have an old Sears compressor that works great for me driving air tools, filling tires, and just being a source of air. It has accurate gauges and dome loader regulator. It has a volume tank that is about ten gallons. I know it is overkill, but is this compressor okay to use for airbrushing, too, or should I spend more for just a dedicated airbrush compressor?

It’s perfect if you can live with the sound. When I lived in the US I ran a line from my spray booth/workshop to my house next door. I ran the line underground and had another regulator moisture/trap in my art room. I ran large PVC pipping underground and then feed the compressor hose through it so I could remove or replace it with little trouble. Or you could build a small box around it to kill the noise. I think Pat Gaines has a "how to" on his site. Pretty much it’s a five sided box with the open side on the floor over the compressor. You need to get fresh air in it (I used a bathroom fan), and hot air out (get the box about 1" off the floor…I used rubber blocks at each courner), plus some sound proofing (I used speaker foam)…fini Also I live in the desert, and I have yet to get noticeable water out of the bleeder valve on the bottom of the volume tank. We have very low humidity.

Talk about good luck…heck here in Sydney we’re in the middle of one of our worst droughts in our history and even have water restrictions…but with our humidity, I need to drain the big compressor each night when they close the factory…go figure. I sure wouldn’t spend the big dollars on a silent air compressor, as it really limits you on what you can airbrush….Our old studio silent compressor unit had twin TC-50 motors on it and would run 8 airbrushes at once, but cost a few thousand. Since we had three full time airbrush artist working on displays and murals, it suited our needs. Like I said my jun air lasted over 10 years with only oil changes and my Hansa last about the same. They are great for an illustrators art room, but they wouldn’t allow you to do a T-shirt with, say, a Paasche VL #3. Hope that helps ya, Ken

Response:

I know this is pretty long, but I’m not trying to BS anyone, just open some eyes on the compressor market. The best units in my 30 some years has been my jun air and my Hansa aero pro oil bath compressors. I also have an old belt drive 12cfm (high priced 11 years ago) at the factory that I’m leaving with them. I hope this helps some people out. Later….Ken

I am going to start airbrushing soon. I have an old Sears compressor that works great for me driving air tools, filling tires, and just being a source of air. It has accurate gauges and dome loader regulator. It has a volume tank that is about ten gallons. I know it is overkill, but is this compressor okay to use for airbrushing, too, or should I spend more for just a dedicated airbrush compressor? Also I live in the desert, and I have yet to get noticeable water out of the bleeder valve on the bottom of the volume tank. We have very low humidity. Steve

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
Opinions needed

Question:

Hi all! I am a hobbies and not an artist. I am looking to purchase an airbrush for multiple uses and need advice from those who know. I do a big Halloween thing every year, and work on several new props each year. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail. Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. I have been surfing around and am thinking either the Badger Anthem or Universal. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs. Price is not a problem, and I think I have the air source covered. Currently I have a full size compressor with 26 gal tank and a little diaphragm job I can add a reservoir to for portability. Thanks in Advance, Doug

Response:

I know the H is capable of everything you’re talking about. Things are just substantially more of a hassle to do with a single action, external mix airbrush. It’s just an all-around nicer experience with internal mix. On a positive note regarding the H: if anyone wants to say that the H is the best external mix, single action airbrush in the world, I’d be agreeing with that. If they’re gonna build a single action / external mix, that’s the way to do it. David Kennesaw, GA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – That would be because he isn’t using Paasche or Iwata… by choice. Douglas was originally asking about a Badger Anthem. Jay’s site is an ideal demonstration of what he asked about. Sorry mate…I guess I misjudged you I want to yell at ya for recommending an H, but I won’t. I have one of those. He bought a VL, so he got internal mix already. Hey David you went to far there, from your response you know little about airbrushing props…I do… An H is what the masters of movie, theater and even Sydney Opera Company prop departments use by choice. By the way…We also supply the TAFE colleges here in the Sydney metro area(That’s the four year college programs for tradesmen)…Two of the Automotive course TAFEs offered, use Paasche VL kits for the students. One other college uses Sparmax SP-35 for their courses. The TAFE colleges’ signwriters courses use Hansa Aeropro’s, Sparmax DH-125 (with 0.5mm fluid nozzles to handle waterborne urethanes)…. The make-up uses sparmax DH 101 with 0.35 fluid nozzles (I change them for nails) and Iwata HPC… My point? All those courses have "H"s in the classrooms for the students to use and try out, as there are many times that old H is great. Want to see an H in action…try Ivan’s site www.ivanbenic.com It’s the only brush he uses…:-) Ken

Response:

Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem. This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/ Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find.

Mate I went to jay’s site and he’s sponsored by Badger! I used to demonstrate for that company and service there equipment…if you have an hour I can lay out the limits of a badger for you…lol.. I’m always amazed how people seem to believe the magic is in the brush.. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other

items with much greater detail. Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. Mate, you have just discribed a Paasche Mdl H….. We sell tons of airbrush equipment to the movie industry, Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Matrix, Fox, etc and most the prop work and makeup is done with the mdl H. It does all the things you asked about and a 3 tip kit from Paasche in the US is next to nothing in price. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs.

Doug, you hit the nail on the head, and since price isn’t a problem…I’d make a choice a little later on. First kind of get the feel of the Paasche and your needs for detail. You’ll have a better understanding of what the brushes can do. Then when you are ready, get yourself a dual action. by the way …"Price is not a problem" (Do you know any of my ex-wives!!!LOL…) and You’re covered in the compressor department mate…for sure. Later, Ken

Response:

I think the diaphragm compressor won’t be able to push pressure into a tank. The big one with the 26 gallon tank will do great. You’d just have to add a regulator/gauge/moisture trap. They’re about $30. You can put a quick disconnect male (with 1/4" threads on the other side) in the regulator’s in side and it will be able to plug into the compressor air hose or right into the hose disconnect. Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem. This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/ Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find. David Kennesaw, GA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi all! I am a hobbies and not an artist. I am looking to purchase an airbrush for multiple uses and need advice from those who know. I do a big Halloween thing every year, and work on several new props each year. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail. Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. I have been surfing around and am thinking either the Badger Anthem or Universal. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs. Price is not a problem, and I think I have the air source covered. Currently I have a full size compressor with 26 gal tank and a little diaphragm job I can add a reservoir to for portability. Thanks in Advance, Doug

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem. This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/ Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find. Mate I went to jay’s site and he’s sponsored by Badger! I used to demonstrate for that company and service there equipment…if you have an hour I can lay out the limits of a badger for you…lol.. I’m always amazed how people seem to believe the magic is in the brush.. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail. Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. Mate, you have just discribed a Paasche Mdl H….. We sell tons of airbrush equipment to the movie industry, Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Matrix, Fox, etc and most the prop work and makeup is done with the mdl H. It does all the things you asked about and a 3 tip kit from Paasche in the US is next to nothing in price. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs. Doug, you hit the nail on the head, and since price isn’t a problem…I’d make a choice a little later on. First kind of get the feel of the Paasche and your needs for detail. You’ll have a better understanding of what the brushes can do. Then when you are ready, get yourself a dual action. by the way …"Price is not a problem" (Do you know any of my ex-wives!!!LOL…) and You’re covered in the compressor department mate…for sure. Later, Ken

Ken, thanks for the response! I just spent 1.5 hours at Perl Art supply and let the guy talk me into Paasche VL. I paid about $30 +tax more than I needed to but got to play with both prior to buying. I still like the Anthem better then the VL but I guess I should play with it for a while before I make up my mind. The demo VL had a #5 needle in it so it didn’t do thin lines to well, but the thing I disliked the most was the thickness of the body and the roughness of the trigger. I will get the adapter for the compress tomorrow and give it a run for fun! Time will tell, and I have a birthday coming up and a sister-in-law that loves to order stuff off the internet. Maybe I can have both and figure it out for myself! Thanks Doug

Response:

Hey Doug, The VL is a good workhorse of an airbrush…I don’t know of any ol’ timers who don’t have one. The #5 tip/needle is 1.0mm, the same as a touch-up gun…I would guess miles too big for your needs. Install the #3 assembly, from the set and lube the trigger assembly with some type of needle lube…(badger calls theirs needle juice) to help you break it in. Believe me, the trigger will smooth out after a little use. I would later swap the aircap for a Paasche #PP "Picker Cap" It will allow you to paint lines as it allows the needle to protrude past the air cap. Just be sure you take care to protect the needle. It’s a good all around airbrush and as you said, later you can pick up a smaller detail airbrush. By the way,I know a guy who makes up glow in the dark pigments/paints in the USA, as we also sell the stuff here. PM me at my address above if you’re interested and I’ll put you in contact with him….great for halloween.. Still on R&R Ken

Response:

That would be because he isn’t using Paasche or Iwata… by choice. Douglas was originally asking about a Badger Anthem. Jay’s site is an ideal demonstration of what he asked about.

Sorry mate…I guess I misjudged you I want to yell at ya for recommending an H, but I won’t. I have one of those. He bought a VL, so he got internal mix already.

Hey David you went to far there, from your response you know little about airbrushing props…I do… An H is what the masters of movie, theater and even Sydney Opera Company prop departments use by choice. By the way…We also supply the TAFE colleges here in the Sydney metro area(That’s the four year college programs for tradesmen)…Two of the Automotive course TAFEs offered, use Paasche VL kits for the students. One other college uses Sparmax SP-35 for their courses. The TAFE colleges’ signwriters courses use Hansa Aeropro’s, Sparmax DH-125 (with 0.5mm fluid nozzles to handle waterborne urethanes)…. The make-up uses sparmax DH 101 with 0.35 fluid nozzles (I change them for nails) and Iwata HPC… My point? All those courses have "H"s in the classrooms for the students to use and try out, as there are many times that old H is great. Want to see an H in action…try Ivan’s site www.ivanbenic.com It’s the only brush he uses…:-) Ken

Response:

Mate I went to jay’s site and he’s sponsored by Badger!

That would be because he isn’t using Paasche or Iwata… by choice. Douglas was originally asking about a Badger Anthem. Jay’s site is an ideal demonstration of what he asked about. I used to demonstrate for that company and service there equipment…if you have an hour I can lay out the limits of a badger for you…lol.. I’m always amazed how people seem to believe the magic is in the brush..

As though the very same limits would not apply to the Millenium or the Revolution BCR? I said "that’s mostly a demonstration of skill". Skill doesn’t come from the airbrush. I want to yell at ya for recommending an H, but I won’t. I have one of those. He bought a VL, so he got internal mix already. David Kennesaw, GA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some awesome stuff can be done with a Badger Anthem. This guy, Jay, mainly uses an Anthem: http://www.jaysgrafx.com/ Of course, that’s mostly a demonstration of skill, but it shows that the limits of the Anthem are hard to find. I am thinking an airbrush would let me doctor masks bones and other items with much greater detail. Things important to me are flexibility in pattern, (very tight to fairly large), ease of use (beginner), ease of clean up and the ability to use just a little paint for a touch up or a lot for a larger item. Mate, you have just discribed a Paasche Mdl H….. We sell tons of airbrush equipment to the movie industry, Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Matrix, Fox, etc and most the prop work and makeup is done with the mdl H. It does all the things you asked about and a 3 tip kit from Paasche in the US is next to nothing in price. I realize there is a tool for every job and not necessarily a tool for all jobs. Doug, you hit the nail on the head, and since price isn’t a problem…I’d make a choice a little later on. First kind of get the feel of the Paasche and your needs for detail. You’ll have a better understanding of what the brushes can do. Then when you are ready, get yourself a dual action. by the way …"Price is not a problem" (Do you know any of my ex-wives!!!LOL…) and You’re covered in the compressor department mate…for sure. Later, Ken

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
AIRBRUSH HAIR

Question:

Some artists use a product called clayboard. A figure is airbrushed or painted on this board as any other. Then scratching tools are used to scratch down to the white below. The scratches can be very fine. I have not used it myself. SteveH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I know a method which I havent used myself but should work fine. just cut some hair and use it as a stencil at the edges of the painted hairstyle. So it seems that the airbrushing is art of faking, indeed. PEACE Lukasz www.hotairbrush.prv.pl

Response:

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been trying some different ways to create a believable skin tone,using tricks and techniques that I learned from you all,as helped me very much,and I thank you all,but I can’t still create good hair with an airbrush,so I need to hand brush them.What would be the best way to apply it using an airbrush all the way??? Thank you all….

Response:

Mate, If you only want to use the airbrush… I use the scratch back method with a knife and rubbers (erasers). You just build up freehand shapes and lines with the airbrush spraying medium colour glazes….then scratch back some fine line details….repeat the process building from dark to light glazes. also…. Un-twist some twine rope and use the fibers for masking…Just spray your glazes over the fibers… Hope that helps ya’ Ken

Response:

I use graphite pencil first and draw the hair to a finished state in pencil, then I airbrush in the color, then paintbrush for some detail and finish with opaque colored pencil for the highlights. Airbrushing alone will not make good hair. Paul. http://www.littlemisspinup.com http://www.paulcorfield.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been trying some different ways to create a believable skin tone,using tricks and techniques that I learned from you all,as helped me very much,and I thank you all,but I can’t still create good hair with an airbrush,so I need to hand brush them.What would be the best way to apply it using an airbrush all the way??? Thank you all….

Response:

I’ve been trying some different ways to create a believable skin tone,using tricks and techniques that I learned from you all,as helped me very much,and I thank you all,but I can’t still create good hair with an airbrush,so I need to hand brush them.What would be the best way to apply it using an airbrush all the way??? Thank you all….

Response:

Scratching back is one of the best methods and it’s one I used to use all the time on the Frisk CS10 board. CS10 has a thin layer of clay. In the UK the board is way overpriced which is why I now do hair with brushes, colored pencils and airbrush on hot pressed watercolor board. Normal clayboard is quite heavy which is why I avoid it to save on shipping fees. Paul. http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Some artists use a product called clayboard. A figure is airbrushed or painted on this board as any other. Then scratching tools are used to scratch down to the white below. The scratches can be very fine. I have not used it myself. SteveH I know a method which I havent used myself but should work fine. just cut some hair and use it as a stencil at the edges of the painted hairstyle. So it seems that the airbrushing is art of faking, indeed. PEACE Lukasz www.hotairbrush.prv.pl

Response:

I know a method which I havent used myself but should work fine. just cut some hair and use it as a stencil at the edges of the painted hairstyle. So it seems that the airbrushing is art of faking, indeed. PEACE Lukasz www.hotairbrush.prv.pl

Response:

No comments Airbrush Art
My bike project…

Question:

Thanks Hawgeye for looking at the results. While you’re here, I do have a question for you too. When I inspected my tank a little more closely, I found that a couple of spots that I believed to be dust particles, look like they are little dimples as if the material didn’t flow together all the way. Do you have any idea what may have caused this? I’m considering what to do with the whole clear coat job, sand and add more layers or just sand and buff the tiny dust spots and leave it. The clear, I put on in one thinner layer and four thicker layers. I decided to use an Iwata W100 (non HVLP) for the job since I didn’t seem to be skilled enough to use the HVLP gun I bought last year. As for my question, I’ve prepared the front fender for the airbrush work and I want to do some gold leaf stuff too. I’m just trying to avoid the same problem on the front fender as I had on the tank. I did learn that I have to improve the ventilation in my ‘booth’. Thanks in advance for any input you can give me, Big Dutch (take-off the wooden shoes to reply)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – "Big Dutch" wrote … I’ll want to polish and buff the tank before mounting. I would appreciate any input I can get to improve my paint work. The images are shown on the projects page of my website www.bigdutch.us . I’m still working on the paintwork of the fenders which I hope to finish in the next couple of weeks. The pics look real good to me. I don’t know the details of your clear-coating but before you buff out the clear you may want to sand it with 600 grit wet and then shoot 2-3 more coats of clear. After that cures you can start with 1000 or 1200 and work your way up to 2000 then buff it using 3M Finese or another good compound and the appropriate pad. That is if it needs buffing at all. Make sure you have the tank held down to a solid surface. You don’t want the buffer whipping the part across the room. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

"Big Dutch" wrote … I’ll want to polish and buff the tank before mounting. I would appreciate any input I can get to improve my paint work. The images are shown on the projects page of my website www.bigdutch.us . I’m still working on the paintwork of the fenders which I hope to finish in the next couple of

weeks. The pics look real good to me. I don’t know the details of your clear-coating but before you buff out the clear you may want to sand it with 600 grit wet and then shoot 2-3 more coats of clear. After that cures you can start with 1000 or 1200 and work your way up to 2000 then buff it using 3M Finese or another good compound and the appropriate pad. That is if it needs buffing at all. Make sure you have the tank held down to a solid surface. You don’t want the buffer whipping the part across the room. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Aloha Guys… Yo Dutch! hehe…can’t get used to it Platy…Okay I’ll try….yo Dutch! I like your painting on the bike project. Looks really good to me too. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: VISI.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Thanks Hawgeye for looking at the results. While you’re here, I do have a question for you too. When I inspected my tank a little more closely, I found that a couple of spots that I believed to be dust particles, look like they are little dimples as if the material didn’t flow together all the way. Do you have any idea what may have caused this? I’m considering what to do with the whole clear coat job, sand and add more layers or just sand and buff the tiny dust spots and leave it. The clear, I put on in one thinner layer and four thicker layers. I decided to use an Iwata W100 (non HVLP) for the job since I didn’t seem to be skilled enough to use the HVLP gun I bought last year. As for my question, I’ve prepared the front fender for the airbrush work and I want to do some gold leaf stuff too. I’m just trying to avoid the same problem on the front fender as I had on the tank. I did learn that I have to improve the ventilation in my ‘booth’. Thanks in advance for any input you can give me, Big Dutch (take-off the wooden shoes to reply) "Big Dutch" wrote … I’ll want to polish and buff the tank before mounting. I would appreciate any input I can get to improve my paint work. The images are shown on the projects page of my website www.bigdutch.us . I’m still working on the paintwork of the fenders which I hope to finish in the next couple of weeks. The pics look real good to me. I don’t know the details of your clear-coating but before you buff out the clear you may want to sand it with 600 grit wet and then shoot 2-3 more coats of clear. After that cures you can start with 1000 or 1200 and work your way up to 2000 then buff it using 3M Finese or another good compound and the appropriate pad. That is if it needs buffing at all. Make sure you have the tank held down to a solid surface. You don’t want the buffer whipping the part across the room. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Dutch… Why do you think that the HVLP needs to have a skilled user? I just got one myself…do I need to know something special? Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: VISI.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Thanks Hawgeye for looking at the results. While you’re here, I do have a question for you too. When I inspected my tank a little more closely, I found that a couple of spots that I believed to be dust particles, look like they are little dimples as if the material didn’t flow together all the way. Do you have any idea what may have caused this? I’m considering what to do with the whole clear coat job, sand and add more layers or just sand and buff the tiny dust spots and leave it. The clear, I put on in one thinner layer and four thicker layers. I decided to use an Iwata W100 (non HVLP) for the job since I didn’t seem to be skilled enough to use the HVLP gun I bought last year. As for my question, I’ve prepared the front fender for the airbrush work and I want to do some gold leaf stuff too. I’m just trying to avoid the same problem on the front fender as I had on the tank. I did learn that I have to improve the ventilation in my ‘booth’. Thanks in advance for any input you can give me, Big Dutch (take-off the wooden shoes to reply) "Big Dutch" wrote … I’ll want to polish and buff the tank before mounting. I would appreciate any input I can get to improve my paint work. The images are shown on the projects page of my website www.bigdutch.us . I’m still working on the paintwork of the fenders which I hope to finish in the next couple of weeks. The pics look real good to me. I don’t know the details of your clear-coating but before you buff out the clear you may want to sand it with 600 grit wet and then shoot 2-3 more coats of clear. After that cures you can start with 1000 or 1200 and work your way up to 2000 then buff it using 3M Finese or another good compound and the appropriate pad. That is if it needs buffing at all. Make sure you have the tank held down to a solid surface. You don’t want the buffer whipping the part across the room. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Hi Vern, Thanks for checking out the results too. I think that using the HVLP gun will be fine. All it takes is probably some practicing, something I didn’t do nearly enough before I tried to paint this tank and the fenders. The result was operator error due to poor planning. After this project is done, I’m going back to practicing with that gun to learn how to use it now that I have it anyway. To explain one thing about the sequence of the paintwork I did: I painted the base colors (Orion Silver by HoK), the kandy and the initial layers of clear about a year ago. I sanded the parts bit by bit over the year and scuffed them before starting the artwork. After I was done doing the artwork I cleared the tank within about 10 days. I think I’m going to try to block sand the tank with 2000 grit to 2500 grit and buff it. Whatever is left of any of the small dirt bumps will have to stay. This last weekend I finished the base color and kandy on the front fender (the rear fender somehow caught so much dust that it will have to come off again |o( ) so I’ll start the artwork tonight or so. — Big Dutch (take-off the wooden shoes to reply)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dutch… Why do you think that the HVLP needs to have a skilled user? I just got one myself…do I need to know something special? Vern Organization: VISI.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Thanks Hawgeye for looking at the results. While you’re here, I do have a question for you too. When I inspected my tank a little more closely, I found that a couple of spots that I believed to be dust particles, look like they are little dimples as if the material didn’t flow together all the way. Do you have any idea what may have caused this? I’m considering what to do with the whole clear coat job, sand and add more layers or just sand and buff the tiny dust spots and leave it. The clear, I put on in one thinner layer and four thicker layers. I decided to use an Iwata W100 (non HVLP) for the job since I didn’t seem to be skilled enough to use the HVLP gun I bought last year. As for my question, I’ve prepared the front fender for the airbrush work and I want to do some gold leaf stuff too. I’m just trying to avoid the same problem on the front fender as I had on the tank. I did learn that I have to improve the ventilation in my ‘booth’. Thanks in advance for any input you can give me, Big Dutch (take-off the wooden shoes to reply) "Big Dutch" wrote … I’ll want to polish and buff the tank before mounting. I would appreciate any input I can get to improve my paint work. The images are shown on the projects page of my website www.bigdutch.us . I’m still working on the paintwork of the fenders which I hope to finish in the next couple of weeks. The pics look real good to me. I don’t know the details of your clear-coating but before you buff out the clear you may want to sand it with 600 grit wet and then shoot 2-3 more coats of clear. After that cures you can start with 1000 or 1200 and work your way up to 2000 then buff it using 3M Finese or another good compound and the appropriate pad. That is if it needs buffing at all. Make sure you have the tank held down to a solid surface. You don’t want the buffer whipping the part across the room. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Dutch… another thing that hawgeye mentioned and I feel is important… Don’t forget your ’shoot suit’…..helps keep the dust from your clothing from being attracted to it by means of static. Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: VISI.com Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art Hawgeye, Thanks for the insight on the possible causes of these craters. I’ll make sure to pay even more attention to make sure I don’t leave any reason for them to show on the fenders. I’m going to try to add a little more reducer (I did use the right reducer for the relatively high temperatures I spray in,

No comments Airbrush Art
A day in the life of a painter

Question:

Wholy Cow hawgeye! What the? S#t! Glad to see you’re in one piece. Whoa is all I can say. Try and check maybe there was a clog in the line somewhere. Problem with the regulator?….It must have taken a lot, and doing it for a while….basically air is compressable…and the pressure must have been awefully high for it to do that. You say you were using the compressor with the DA sander? hmmm did the DA act any different prior to the explosion. I mean did it slow down or anything? Wierd! Glad to see you’re not hurt though. Compressor is replaceable. Take care Vern – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Organization: Comcast Online Newsgroups: alt.airbrush.art I’m out in the shop cleaning up some parts with DA sander getting them ready for primer all of a sudden I hear this BOOM!!! Lights flash, sparks are flying. Sounded like a bomb going off. After I shit myself and got up off the floor, I look over at the air compressor. It’s still running and sparks are still flying. I run to the breaker panel and start flippin’ breakers totally ignoring my finely detailed diagram. I turned everything off and on before I even got to the compressor breaker. After I lit 3 cigarettes simultaneously and calmed down a bit I look over at the compressor to see if there was a fire. So I wonder over to the compressor to check out the damage. I thought for sure that I had blown the motor or the pump but the supply tube to the tank decided it couldn’t take the pressure. Check out the pic at http://tinyurl.com/48dqd . I’m guessing the sparks were from water/oil vapor spraying on the motor or the pressure switch. I have no idea where the shrapnel landed. Needless to say I’m out of business until I can get that fixed. Fahk!!! — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Hey Hawgeye, Glad to see you got away with a scare! Was the pipe damaged or so? It is weird to see a pipe rupture like that. It looks like aluminum pipe so rust shouldn’t have caused the problem. I’ve experienced an explosion like that once in a factory where they had decided to use pvc pipe for their shop air (what were they thinking???) . It does scare the living daylights out of you. Glad it wasn’t the compressor tank though! Isn’t it easier to replace that with some armored flexible tubing and simple barb fittings and hose clamps? If you use the right material, that should be able to stand the max pressure of the compressor (120 psi?). Anyhow, good luck with it, Ed, (a.k.a. Big Dutch (previously known as Platypus)) ;op )

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m out in the shop cleaning up some parts with DA sander getting them ready for primer all of a sudden I hear this BOOM!!! Lights flash, sparks are flying. Sounded like a bomb going off. After I shit myself and got up off the floor, I look over at the air compressor. It’s still running and sparks are still flying. I run to the breaker panel and start flippin’ breakers totally ignoring my finely detailed diagram. I turned everything off and on before I even got to the compressor breaker. After I lit 3 cigarettes simultaneously and calmed down a bit I look over at the compressor to see if there was a fire. So I wonder over to the compressor to check out the damage. I thought for sure that I had blown the motor or the pump but the supply tube to the tank decided it couldn’t take the pressure. Check out the pic at http://tinyurl.com/48dqd . I’m guessing the sparks were from water/oil vapor spraying on the motor or the pressure switch. I have no idea where the shrapnel landed. Needless to say I’m out of business until I can get that fixed. Fahk!!! — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

I’m out in the shop cleaning up some parts with DA sander getting them ready for primer all of a sudden I hear this BOOM!!! Lights flash, sparks are flying. Sounded like a bomb going off. After I shit myself and got up off the floor, I look over at the air compressor. It’s still running and sparks are still flying. I run to the breaker panel and start flippin’ breakers totally ignoring my finely detailed diagram. I turned everything off and on before I even got to the compressor breaker. After I lit 3 cigarettes simultaneously and calmed down a bit I look over at the compressor to see if there was a fire. So I wonder over to the compressor to check out the damage. I thought for sure that I had blown the motor or the pump but the supply tube to the tank decided it couldn’t take the pressure. Check out the pic at http://tinyurl.com/48dqd . I’m guessing the sparks were from water/oil vapor spraying on the motor or the pressure switch. I have no idea where the shrapnel landed. Needless to say I’m out of business until I can get that fixed. Fahk!!! — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m out in the shop cleaning up some parts with DA sander getting them ready for primer all of a sudden I hear this BOOM!!! Lights flash, sparks are flying. Sounded like a bomb going off. After I shit myself and got up off the floor, I look over at the air compressor. It’s still running and sparks are still flying. I run to the breaker panel and start flippin’ breakers totally ignoring my finely detailed diagram. I turned everything off and on before I even got to the compressor breaker. After I lit 3 cigarettes simultaneously and calmed down a bit I look over at the compressor to see if there was a fire. So I wonder over to the compressor to check out the damage. I thought for sure that I had blown the motor or the pump but the supply tube to the tank decided it couldn’t take the pressure. Check out the pic at http://tinyurl.com/48dqd . I’m guessing the sparks were from water/oil vapor spraying on the motor or the pressure switch. I have no idea where the shrapnel landed. Needless to say I’m out of business until I can get that fixed. Fahk!!! — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

"hawgeye" wrote…

snipped the first go-around Thanks for all the replies. Until I get a permanent replacement I wanted to see if there was any other damage so today I fashion together a temporary fix made of copper tubing. The original piece appears to be aluminum. I only ran the compressor up to 50 psi. It appears that the check valve (on the end of the line going into the tank) has gone bad. This may have been part of the problem. Another culprit may have been as Rich suggest that the weakest point in that tube is at the 180deg bend. I think the reason why the did the 180 is because the inlet to the tank is straight down from the outlet of the pump and you couldn’t get that tight of a 90deg bend in that size tubing. Not to mention it has to clear the top of the pressure switch. Hopefully that’s all that went bad and it should only cost about $25 to be back in business. Hopefully I can find the stuff locally. If not I’ll have to order it on-line but that’ll set me back a week or so. I did manage to find a small chunk of the shrapnel. It landed 28′ away from the compressor. http://tinyurl.com/4yvtv It looks like it hit the wall, took a chunk of paint out of the wall and landed on the top edge of the backsplash of the workbench. If I’d have been 6′ more to my right I think it would have nailed me. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

I had a similar thing happen with a plastic hose once. It made a hell of a bang when it burst. My ear was right near it at the time. I was deaf for the rest of the day. Paul. http://www.paulcorfield.com http://www.littlemisspinup.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m out in the shop cleaning up some parts with DA sander getting them ready for primer all of a sudden I hear this BOOM!!! Lights flash, sparks are flying. Sounded like a bomb going off. After I shit myself and got up off the floor, I look over at the air compressor. It’s still running and sparks are still flying. I run to the breaker panel and start flippin’ breakers totally ignoring my finely detailed diagram. I turned everything off and on before I even got to the compressor breaker. After I lit 3 cigarettes simultaneously and calmed down a bit I look over at the compressor to see if there was a fire. So I wonder over to the compressor to check out the damage. I thought for sure that I had blown the motor or the pump but the supply tube to the tank decided it couldn’t take the pressure. Check out the pic at http://tinyurl.com/48dqd . I’m guessing the sparks were from water/oil vapor spraying on the motor or the pressure switch. I have no idea where the shrapnel landed. Needless to say I’m out of business until I can get that fixed. Fahk!!! — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

heh, God is talking to you then. Put all aside and take a long bike ride.

Yeah I had a friend bend me up some thicker wall tubing. Although since then I managed to cook the pump. Ugggh! hawgeye

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think you can use Type ’ K ‘ copper and leave it at that. Ask the Copper Manufactures just to be safe. "hawgeye" wrote… snipped the first go-around Thanks for all the replies. Until I get a permanent replacement I wanted to see if there was any other damage so today I fashion together a temporary fix made of copper tubing. The original piece appears to be aluminum. I only ran the compressor up to 50 psi. It appears that the check valve (on the end of the line going into the tank) has gone bad. This may have been part of the problem. Another culprit may have been as Rich suggest that the weakest point in that tube is at the 180deg bend. I think the reason why the did the 180 is because the inlet to the tank is straight down from the outlet of the pump and you couldn’t get that tight of a 90deg bend in that size tubing. Not to mention it has to clear the top of the pressure switch. Hopefully that’s all that went bad and it should only cost about $25 to be back in business. Hopefully I can find the stuff locally. If not I’ll have to order it on-line but that’ll set me back a week or so. I did manage to find a small chunk of the shrapnel. It landed 28′ away from the compressor. http://tinyurl.com/4yvtv It looks like it hit the wall, took a chunk of paint out of the wall and landed on the top edge of the backsplash of the workbench. If I’d have been 6′ more to my right I think it would have nailed me. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Mate, In my entire life I have never seen a compressor line blow like that….The fitting maybe…but the middle of a metal feed tube..never. I’m sure it would have scared the shit out of me too…in coming!! At least you weren’t hurt. Ken

Response:

Just a guess here but looking at the location of the rupture, the 180 degree bend probably acted as a stress concentrator. Hard to tell without a wider field of view but there is probably some relative motion between the assembly on the bottom (tank?) and the assembly to the upper left (compressor piston?). The manufacturer may have chosen to use the P-shape instead of a simple right-angle bend in order to give more flexibility to the piping. That works but over time the constant flexing will cause hardening of the metal and promote the growth of cracks — even microscopic ones. IIRC, the smallest cracks are the most prone to concentrate stress. See if you can locate a flex hose rated for [swag: 120% of the relief valve setting] with the proper fittings and get away from the rigid pipe. — Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

Response:

I think you can use Type ’ K ‘ copper and leave it at that. Ask the Copper Manufactures just to be safe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – "hawgeye" wrote… snipped the first go-around Thanks for all the replies. Until I get a permanent replacement I wanted to see if there was any other damage so today I fashion together a temporary fix made of copper tubing. The original piece appears to be aluminum. I only ran the compressor up to 50 psi. It appears that the check valve (on the end of the line going into the tank) has gone bad. This may have been part of the problem. Another culprit may have been as Rich suggest that the weakest point in that tube is at the 180deg bend. I think the reason why the did the 180 is because the inlet to the tank is straight down from the outlet of the pump and you couldn’t get that tight of a 90deg bend in that size tubing. Not to mention it has to clear the top of the pressure switch. Hopefully that’s all that went bad and it should only cost about $25 to be back in business. Hopefully I can find the stuff locally. If not I’ll have to order it on-line but that’ll set me back a week or so. I did manage to find a small chunk of the shrapnel. It landed 28′ away from the compressor. http://tinyurl.com/4yvtv It looks like it hit the wall, took a chunk of paint out of the wall and landed on the top edge of the backsplash of the workbench. If I’d have been 6′ more to my right I think it would have nailed me. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

Response:

Yeah I had a friend bend me up some thicker wall tubing. Although since then I managed to cook the pump. Ugggh! hawgeye – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think you can use Type ’ K ‘ copper and leave it at that. Ask the Copper Manufactures just to be safe. "hawgeye" wrote… snipped the first go-around Thanks for all the replies. Until I get a permanent replacement I wanted to see if there was any other damage so today I fashion together a temporary fix made of copper tubing. The original piece appears to be aluminum. I only ran the compressor up to 50 psi. It appears that the check valve (on the end of the line going into the tank) has gone bad. This may have been part of the problem. Another culprit may have been as Rich suggest that the weakest point in that tube is at the 180deg bend. I think the reason why the did the 180 is because the inlet to the tank is straight down from the outlet of the pump and you couldn’t get that tight of a 90deg bend in that size tubing. Not to mention it has to clear the top of the pressure switch. Hopefully that’s all that went bad and it should only cost about $25 to be back in business. Hopefully I can find the stuff locally. If not I’ll have to order it on-line but that’ll set me back a week or so. I did manage to find a small chunk of the shrapnel. It landed 28′ away from the compressor. http://tinyurl.com/4yvtv It looks like it hit the wall, took a chunk of paint out of the wall and landed on the top edge of the backsplash of the workbench. If I’d have been 6′ more to my right I think it would have nailed me. — hawgeye www.hawgeye.com

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